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 Post subject: Stuck control shafts
PostPosted: Jan Sun 07, 2018 9:40 pm 
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Joined: Jan Thu 01, 1970 1:00 am
Posts: 5233
Location: 253 Blanche St. Plymouth, MI USA
DONT Force them ! Frozen up volume control or tone control shafts are common. this is caused by the grease drying up in the bushing. The secret fix is HEAT. First shoot WD40 or similar around where the shaft exits the bushing. Then, take your 33-40 watt solder pencil with CHISEL tip (what you should be using on vintage gear) and put a little solder on it to help the heat transfer, and put it on the bushing for a minute at least. Then turn, usually in the clockwise direction but you can check the control's position in advance by measuring the resistance from one end to the wiper, then you know where it was left last. Almost always, vol controls are left in the low or off position, tone controls you never know.
This method works 90% of the time.
Once loose, keep working it to draw in the new lube. You may have to repeat.
Mark Oppat
Antique Audio
Plymouth, MI


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 Post subject: Re: Stuck control shafts
PostPosted: Jan Sun 07, 2018 11:32 pm 
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Joined: Jan Thu 01, 1970 1:00 am
Posts: 876
Location: Wayside, NJ Monmouth
Words to the Wise. +1


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 Post subject: Re: Stuck control shafts
PostPosted: Jan Mon 08, 2018 4:58 am 
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Joined: Jan Thu 01, 1970 1:00 am
Posts: 3410
Location: Olympia WA USA
Thanks Mark

I always used my big soldering gun to heat them up. I also put the pots so the bushing was up vertically, so the lubricant could flow with gravity & heat.
Your suggestion also works well on T/T with frozen platters, motors, spindles and such.

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FrankB
WB7ELC
Member: TCA & Steel Soldiers.
" Break down the wall"


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 Post subject: Re: Stuck control shafts
PostPosted: Jan Mon 08, 2018 6:56 am 
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Joined: Jan Thu 01, 1970 1:00 am
Posts: 5233
Location: 253 Blanche St. Plymouth, MI USA
FrankB wrote:
Thanks Mark

I always used my big soldering gun to heat them up. I also put the pots so the bushing was up vertically, so the lubricant could flow with gravity & heat.
Your suggestion also works well on T/T with frozen platters, motors, spindles and such.


actually with heat, no need to put the control facing up, heat will help draw in the lube. Doesnt hurt though. BTW, you are dead-on about freeing up phono parts, the main one is the "reject cam" that is on an axle that is sometimes riveted to the deck. I have seen them freeze on the axle but still get "driven" around because the axle rivet is loose enough ! Not good of course but amazing they sometimes still work like that !
Mark Oppat


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