I'm getting ready to build my power supply. I have my transformers,caps, and my diodes. How do you arrange the diodes to rectify AC to DC? I know that you need four of them, but that's about it.

Secondly, I have heard that if you use a rectifier bridge you don't need to use a center tapped transformer. Is this true, and if so, what do you do with the center tap lead?

Best Regards,

Rob

There are numerous references that explain the various rectifier arrangements. Here's one for example:

http://www.play-hookey.com/ac_theory/ps_rectifiers.html

Make sure your diode polarity is correct (if you have the standard black package DO-35 diodes, the banded end is the cathode. The schematic symbol is an arrow pointing to the band/cathode).

The full wave bridge (FWB) rectifier does not use a center tap. If your transformer secondary is center-tapped, simply tape it up good and out of the way so it does not contact anything.

The full wave center tap (FWCT) rectifier will use the transformers center tap however.

You may want to read a little about the uses and capabilities of each rectifier circuit and match that info to your intended use and transformer capability.

You might want to post your intended specific use here and folks can help out with specifics on regulation, filtering, etc.

Steve

Rob, (et al)...

Further to Steve's remarks...

With respect to your regen project and the power supply to be built for it, the type of full-wave rectifier scheme may be best (or most simply) determined by the high voltage specs of your power transformer's high voltage winding...In this respect, if your power transformer is similar to that as specified in the original article, remember it was selected to provide the required B-plus as from a full-wave center-tap design (as would commonly be used with a full-wave vacuum tube rectifier, such as the 80 or 5Y3).

In that regard, you may want to consider using your 1N4007 diodes in a full-wave center tap scheme such as this (drawn in "bare bones" fashion):



Actual values of resistance components, especially the bleeder as it is shunted across the output, the external load resistance and the resultant current draw as determined by your receiver will require some experimentation to get the B-plus where it is best suited.

FWIW

Bruce
WC5CW

Steve and Bruce,

Thanks for the info. I think that I'll use Bruce's schematic because it's a little closer to the original schematic. I need to keep things simple, as I'm still a bit of a newby.

I'll let you know how it turns out.

Rob