I am trying to trace the output connection on a 6v6 amp they have one end of the secondary output transformer going to the B- and the other going back to the cathode screen grid of the 6sj7, and then through two 25 ufd @ 25v hooked up with the - end tied together and one of the + end to cathode 0f a 6sj7 via a 47k resistor and the other end to one end of the speaker, socket why would they have the caps hooked up that way? I am trying to get this amp working but it is hard to do when I don't know who made this amp, and no schematic!

Without the amp on the bench in front of me, I can't get the full picture, but it sounds as if it has some sort of feedback loop from the output transformer secondary back to that 6SJ7 stage. Those were common in quality amps, especially hi-fi amps. With a 6SJ7 (metal octal) tube involved, instead of one of the later miniature tubes, it must be a fairly vintage circuit.

If you're looking at a homebrew amp of some sort, you may literally be looking at anything, right or wrong.

If you can draw out the circuit on paper and post it here, we may be better able to help...

Larry

Agree, something is way off here. Just beware that unused pins of tube sockets are sometimes used as tie points and do not make a bit of sense unless you know this.

Here are some photos of the amp I'am working on, In the one pix you can see how the out-put transformer is wired to the speaker socket there are three pins on the socket I think that only two are used going to the speaker? maybe someone can ID the make/model of this amp so I can find a schematic/attachment][attachment=3]

Looks like it came out of an early electronic organ or a jukebox. Not a homebrew. It also doesn't look as if it's been mangled or modified. It looks stock.

In your place, I'd start by replacing all the caps (all but mandatory with a unit this age). All lytics, and especially those "bumblebees," will likely be leaky as a sieve. Any micas or ceramics could probably be left alone, but I see none of those.

From the looks of things, those two small lytic caps may be involved in some sort of simple speaker crossover network. A common and inexpensive practice was to feed the low-range speaker (woofer) direct from the OPT, and feed the high-range unit (tweeter) through small caps like these.

After the recapping is done, verify all resistors; the big power resistor is likely the only one that hasn't drifted off spec. You'll be safe with values that fit within the tolerance rating of the resistor (i.e., with a resistor rated at 10% tolerance, any value within 10% of the specified value should be OK).

After that, verify the OPT and power transformer windings against opens and shorts (including shorts between windings and shorts between windings and frame) with a multimeter at least. Depending on what you find, further testing may be needed.

All of these steps should be completed before you consider powering up.

Keep us posted and good luck on your restoration

Larry

Agree with BigBandsMan--do change all the caps. The pix of the speaker jack with the two caps (note they are in series with polarities reversed) which was an old-time trick to make them non-polar (remember to halve the capacitance and double the voltage) would lead me also to agree that there were two speakers involved--1 pin on the jack was common to both speakers, the second (with the caps) fed + to a typically 4-8 ohm tweeter; the third not involved with the caps was the + of the "woofer". Doesn't seem to have enough output tubes for a juke or organ amp. Possibly an early attempt at hi-fi? Both Philco and Motorola were into using those "bumblebee" tubular caps.

Welcome aboard, Sober . Always glad to greet a new contributor.

Larry