I was just lurking on this epic but very interesting thread. I appreciate the remarkably good colors in those two pictures, but what the heck is on in the bottom picture? That's about the creepiest and unnerving thing I have seen in a while!

Brett

The one on the top ain't so hot either

how do you like uncle milts smirk here

FYI you can see the cataract still there on that shot.

That's a classic shot Dave!
I was thinking what you said about color flat screen TVs looking like a dead picture moving on a screen. I was watching Valley of the Dolls (1967) this morning on the flat screen and realized a big part of the movie was about color. It just doesn't translate very good to a flat screen, even though it was made for theaters. However, theater screens are reflected light. The more I get into vintage sets the harder it is for me to watch this flat screen.

there seems to be something artificial about flat screens, yes they have a perfect pic, but movement seems to bother me, maybe its just an something I have never gotten used to (the perfect pic, too perfect). Anyway I don't have one, and at this rate never will. Most of what I watch is old TV shows done in the old format, so I don't need the 16:9. Older movies present a bit of a problem as they are often in cinemascope format, so the pic is letter boxed but thats ok, I can just move closer to the screen.

I wonder how many people will be collecting and restoring flatscreens 50yrs from now...

On tap for the Zenith between work days will be installing recommended fuses, finishing up under the chassis odd parts like fine tuning assembly -- needs the dial cord between the lower shaft and upper tuner section and installing the channel changer mechanism/shaft.

I still have to paint the transformer and do a few more cosmetic things up top as well, because I'm picky

The cabinet is coming along pretty good. As I had mentioned the top was pretty rough. I stripped it and used a soft wire brush on the grain with lacquer thinner to lift out a cig burn and raise the grain around other defects. Once I did that I used Crystalac acrylic grain filler with a squegee to bring it all level again.

Once I get all the grain filled and level it's time to tone everything back to original. I use a combination of stain and artist pigments. If you look at the first shots I posted, around the grille you can see what looks like inlaid veneer in the centers of the vertical and top horizontal strip. What they did was fill those sections with a gesso type light-colored filler, top it with a thin dark layer and scratch the grain pattern in it. Pretty cool stuff. It'll be fun replicating that. I'll try to sneak some pics in here, even though this should be in the cab refinishing section.

Hey Carl, Would you happen to have time to take a photo of what these numbers should look like on your set? I'm going to resurface the dial and replace the numbers by printing the new ones out on a strip of clear inkjet. It doesn't have to be perfect either. I think it's just numbers 7,5 and 4. Thanks!

Here is a photo I had:


Hope this helps.
How are you going to refurbish your Channel Selector?
Hows the cabinet coming along?

Carl

Thanks Carl! Could I be a pest one more time and get a shot of the number 7 and 5 straight on?

First thing I'm working on to restore the changer is to get it tight on the shaft. It's been a real pain but I'm basically suporting it on a socket from a socket wrench set and using another socket and hammer to tap the center hub tighter--very slowly! I've had pretty good luck so far. Next I'm looking at a way to get it in a chuck to turn it and take off a few 1000ths to get rid of that gouge, which was caused by it being loose on the shaft.

Before I do that I'm going to wrap it in tracing paper and carefully trace where the numbers are in relation to each other. I'll then scan the tracing into Photoshop to use as a template and layout some brand new numbers in a seperate layer. Theoretically (haha) I'll be able to print it out on inkjet decal paper, slide it back on the smoothed original and coat it with clear acrylic to protect it. I know, it sounds like a lot of trouble but I love doing stuff like that. I'll post pics of the process.

A few posts up I gave a cabinet rap

Thanks for the help with these little things. I've named the new crystal diode after you. There's a little sign under the chassis that says "The Carl Mowser Memorial Diode." Hey, that's almost as cool as having a highway bridge names after you right?

Here is a photo I took early in the restoration process.
The channel selector is a little dirty:

Here is yet another photo:


The "3" on my knob is a little faded and needs some touch up:


Carl

Congrats on that picture Noisebox! I've been following this for a long time
and have learned a lot. CW helped me out as well on videokarma a while
back. We've only replaced the caps in the separate power supply chassis
on my Zenith 24H21. Saturday we'll take another shot at testing
the picture tube. Wish me luck! Steve

Steve, glad to here you making progress on that beautiful 19" set.
Yours was unusual - at least to me - in that the separate Power
Supply was on the same shelf as the main chassis. I have a 24H21
with 19" 19AP4 but the Power Supply chassis was on the bottom
shelf.

These make beautiful sets - there is nothing comparable to a
porthole TV. BTW, when I first power my 19" set,
the CRT is quite dim. After it is on for a few minutes, the picture is
quite viewable. I suspect my CRT is a little weak. Hope your
CRT is strong.

Carl

BTW Steve, I've tried a tip posted on ARF to use GOOP hand cleaner
(the one without pumice) to clean old wood cabinets like on these
TVs. I tried it on my Mahogany Philco 48-2500 for the first time and it really
brought out the Mahogany finish - the finish at start was almost black
but ended up accentuating the wood highlights. Then I wiped Red Mahogany
stain all over it. After the stain dried out, I applied Howard's Refinisher.
This really transformed the wood cabinet. Not perfect like a total
strip and refinish but it left the cabinet with the patina that a
strip and refinish can't duplicate.

Carl

Thank you Carl! That will work perfect

Hi Steve--good luck on your Zenith! These things are nothing short of totally cool!

Last night I did my first bench test by running "Swamp Women" for an hour or so. I had the set on in my garage with the door open and it attracted some of the neighbors. Now they know I'm a strange person, haha. What a great way to watch these old movies The round CRT gives the picture this subtle artistic look--hard to explain until you've seen one in action. It makes everything look more interesting--kind of trippy.

The only issue I had was this morning when I was watching it before work. For around 45 seconds the screen became bleached out looking and the bottom of the screen pulled up around an inch. It also blured on the right side of the screen. Centering has also been an issue, even with tweaking the adjustments.

Another thing I'm slightly concerned about is how far back I have to pull the ion trap. When I found the set originally there was a space of around 1/2" between the back of the trap and the CRT base. Now it has to be pulled all the way back and touching the base to be able to adjust. Any thoughts on these things?

Adjust the Ion Trap for Maximum screen brightness.
Compromise Max Brightness only slightly to remove any side shadows.

The primary goal for the Ion Trap is to position for Maximum brightness.
At Maximum Brightness you are minimizing the Ions from hitting the
front surface of the screen. Ions hitting the front surface is not a good thing.

Carl

Got that part, I was just wondering why the position for max brightness was all the way back and touching the CRT base. Originally, when I got the set, it was much further forward. It would seem like there should be some play both forward and back as far as position goes.

I found several positions of maximum brightness.
Some with side shadows, others with no side shadows.
So, obviously we want the position that gives us maximum
brightness with the benefit of no side shadows.

Your TV picture looks pretty good so either you have it
set on maximum brightness or very close to it.

Carl

I do have some persistent shadows on the right side of the screen no matter how much I mess with the centering adjustment. I'm going to have to play with the ion trap a little more. I basically just slid it and the screen lit up and then moved it very little since then. It drives me crazy having it so close and there are a few flaws. It's my nature to get distracted by the imperfections.

Carl, that was nice of someone to offer you a CRT for your projection TV. It was probably dissapointing when you discovered it was bad. This is what makes ARF the best place to be; working together to make history come alive!