My filters came in today as well as the rest of the molded caps. Here is where I am at:
No audio yet. Voltages on audio output tube check ok. When I put the meter probe on pin 5 of 6AQ5 audio output, I hear static in the speaker.

Horizontal now fills screen with proper birghtness, but vertical does not reach the top even with height maxed out. One way vertical sync too.

Sync control works good to stabalize horizontal. It comes off the 115V line which is reading about 160V. That also goes to the AGC control which has no effect. To me the pic seems overloaded . Pic fills bottom of screen good.
Doug

Actually, your picture is streteched on the bottom, and, short on the top, plus, centeringg is off... Needs further adjustment.
Picture is too high, and, a little off to one side. Then, you need to further adjust Height, and, linearity controls to get vertical right.
Notice that the heads are at the top of the screen, and, squezed.
It also looks like it is slightly off to one side a little.
Centering should take care of that, also. As you adjust that, you will likely also have to touch up adjustments on your focus coil, and, Ion trap on neck of picture tube.
Hope this helps.
It's not overloading. It's simply way out of adjustment.
Then, we'll see if anything else is wrong.
My be overloading, or, you may have brightness set too high. Until other adjustments are proper, it's hard to tell.
Bill Cahill

I thin k I've got the vertical fixed. The 2.2 m resistor between the vert hold and height controls needed replacing. That fixed the one way vert sync. After that, I was able to adjust the height and lin controls the fill the screen correctly. I'll check it again in awhile. If it's fixed, then I can address the loss of audio.
I did get some Navel Jelly yesterday, so I can work on the rust as soon as electrical restoration is done.

Looking good doug! The vert section is so sensitive to off value parts. The audio shpuld be fairly easy, just hope it isn't an open coil.
- would be very suspect of the agc pot not doing anything and the way the picture looks..

What is concerning me now is the 115V line which reads about 160V. This line comes off the 255V oine (which reads correct) and is dropped thru a 1.7K 10W resistor which seems to be checking normal. This 115V line goes to pin 7 of the 6AU6 AGC keying tube and also to the AGC control itself. I'm wondering if the voltage being approx 45V too high is the reason my ACG is not working.

The 115V line also goes to A11 (L22) and A13 (L23) which are ion the audio stage .

Doug

Something is wrong there causing the 115v not to be loaded down enough. Its to high because the load is to low...
How are the other voltages on that tube?

I checked all the voltages on V9 AGC Keying 6AU6. Everything is fine but pin 7 which SB the 115V (have 155), and pin 1. Pin 1 SB 108V, and I have about 140. I'll start trcing that circut out and see what I can find.

Well I struck out in tracing the 6AU6 tube. In my last post I noted that pin 1 was too high. It goes thru 2 resistors then back to the 115 V line. No wonder it's too high since the 115V is too high. I'll keep checking other circuts.

I do plan on replacing both of those dropping power resistors anyway even though they check good.

I turned it on and let it play for about 30 min. After awhile the horiz started to be jittery. The sync stabalizer control also feeds of the 115V line. Here is the latest pic of it.

That looks like a black and white television set

Hope this helps.

I tried it again last night and had lost the horiz sync. I checked the voltages on the 6CS6 sync seperator, and pin 6 was way off. It SB 15V, and I have about 130. Coming off pin 6 is a .047 and a 68K resistor which I had replaced earlier. From there it goes to the 115V line which I still suspect is the cause of all my problems.

Perhaps your new capacitor shorted out?
It has happenned......
Also, make sure you have the correct value voltage cap there, and, everywhere else.
Bill Cahill

Those numbers dont look right to me. Seems like pin 6 should be more like 115, maybe thats a misprint. Maybe not.
What do pin 5, 7 and 1 measure?

You moved the tube around, maybe its not making contact.

I'm sure that you checked it already, but I can't help thinking that the fine tuning at the channel selector might be a tad off which is preventing you from receiving the audio.

You're right about the tubes. It must have been a bad tube connection. I just took that 6CS6 out and cleaned the pins and put it back in. Now pin 6 reads more normal, about 52V. Still too high but considering it is fed from the 115V which is too high. Still no horiz sync though.
All other voltages on the tube are normal, so I moved to the 12AT7 Sync INV. Everything normal there EXCEPT pin 8. It SB 19V, and I have nothing It goes thru a 3.3K to ground, and also thru a 1000 uf then onto the 6AL5 Horiz AFC . I'll start checking those circuts next. I want to get the horiz right again before I tackle the audio.
Doug

Cool, keep at it!.....wait, wait.....here it comes....>>>

The 6AL5 tube checks good. I'm fixing to start tracing from the 12AT7 thru the 6AL5. One thing I find weird what i have never seen before is the unique tube shield on that 6AL5. The tube sits directly in front on the HV cage. The shiled has some type of metal band around it. See Pic. Can someone clarify why it's like that?

I have seen lead shields on tuner tubes before. Presumably, the heavy shield dampens vibrations and minimizes microphonics. Not sure why one would be used on a horizontal AFC tube. Sometimes shields get removed, mixed around, put back in random places.

Phil Nelson

First, that tube doesn't use a shield.
Second, that shield is definately off an RCA tv. Not the Zenith. It is used as the Oscilator tube in the tuner on RCA tv's.
Bill Cahill

Bill, you're correct. I was looking at the wrong 6AL5. The tube that had that strange shield was the Video Det and DC restorer. Anyway, I found the correct 6AL5 Horiz AFC, and it checked bad. I subbed another one and have good horiz sync once again. Now onto the audio.
BTW, is it ok to leave that shiled on the Video Det/Dc restorer, or should I get a normal style shield?