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 Post subject: Re: Zenith H2447R 19" Porthole TV
PostPosted: Nov Tue 07, 2017 6:55 am 
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Location: Waxahachie Texas
I finished applying the Super Corona Dope to the fly back tonight. After the last coat, I baked it for several more hours. Here is what I'm going with:


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 Post subject: Re: Zenith H2447R 19" Porthole TV
PostPosted: Nov Tue 07, 2017 6:58 am 
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Location: Waxahachie Texas
I thought I'd restore the power supply first. Then the main chassis.

The PS chassis is pretty green from the CAD plating.

I scrubbed it off using a mixture of 50/50 CLR and water. I used a green Scotchbrite pad I get at the Home Depot. I then used Q-tips to swab out the underneath part of the chassis. All was rinsed with Isopropyl alcohol and then dried.

When flipping it over one time, it slipped out of my hand and broke the E-Cap phenolic insulator. After removing the E-Cap (C2) I removed and replaced the insulator mount using some 4-40 screws, lock washers, and nuts. All better now. While I was removing the rivets on the mount I also removed the Candohm (R62) resistor. I then bolted on a 3.5K 25W chassis mount resistor. I'll never have to worry about that going bad! I also used some heat sink compound between the resistor and chassis.

I then noticed that in 2 places a grounding lug was riveted to the chassis. I cleaned both up with a small wire brush and applied some flux to the area. I used my 150W soldering iron to solder both of those ground lugs to the chassis. Only one is shown.


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 Post subject: Re: Zenith H2447R 19" Porthole TV
PostPosted: Nov Tue 07, 2017 7:00 am 
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Joined: Jan Sun 18, 2015 5:01 am
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Location: Waxahachie Texas
I then got to work on re-stuffing the E-Cap (C2). I'll use my usual method of cutting off the base right at the bottom of the can, clean it all out, true up the parting surfaces of both the base and the can. I enlarged hole in the middle of the base to 5/32. Then I epoxy a 1 inch tall piece of PVC pipe to the base. Making sure there is no epoxy on the outside which will interfere with a good seam where the base and can meet. Tomorrow I'll add the replacement E-Caps.


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 Post subject: Re: Zenith H2447R 19" Porthole TV
PostPosted: Nov Tue 07, 2017 11:35 pm 
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Joined: Jan Sun 18, 2015 5:01 am
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Location: Waxahachie Texas
I re-stuffed C2 today. I used some solid 22awg 600V wire going to the terminals. I'll let the pics tell the story.


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 Post subject: Re: Zenith H2447R 19" Porthole TV
PostPosted: Nov Wed 08, 2017 2:23 am 
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Location: Waxahachie Texas
Just a fun fact. Here is a picture of all the resistors and capacitors I intend to replace during this restoration. $ E-Caps are missing from the photo. They are in a re-stuffed C2. All of the replacement resistors are the next step up in wattage. The 1/2W get 1W, the 1W gets 2W, the 2W gets 3W, the 4W gets 7W, and so on. The main chassis Candohm (R109) resistor is listed as a 15K 10W and will be replaced with a 15K 50W chassis mount resistor.


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100_8011a.JPG
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 Post subject: Re: Zenith H2447R 19" Porthole TV
PostPosted: Nov Wed 08, 2017 2:54 am 
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Looking at your re-stuffed cap. It looks like you could have run the wires up through the holes next to each lug.

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 Post subject: Re: Zenith H2447R 19" Porthole TV
PostPosted: Nov Wed 08, 2017 3:54 am 
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Tom Schulz wrote:
Looking at your re-stuffed cap. It looks like you could have run the wires up through the holes next to each lug.


Yes I could have. But I decided to run the tied and bundled wired through the center hole like I always do.

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 Post subject: Re: Zenith H2447R 19" Porthole TV
PostPosted: Nov Wed 08, 2017 3:31 pm 
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Location: Waxahachie Texas
I finished the power supply. I decided to paint the chassis. I used Rust-Oleum grey primer #254150 and Metallic Matte Nickel #727830. I then used Bar-B-Q Black #7778 on the transformer.

There were only a handful of components to change. I cleaned the tubes and their sockets. I did have to notch one end of the aluminum plate because to went over the choke mounting ear.

I then cleaned all the wires underneath and going to the plug. All done.


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 Post subject: Re: Zenith H2447R 19" Porthole TV
PostPosted: Nov Fri 10, 2017 4:09 am 
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Location: Waxahachie Texas
I started on the main chassis and the E-Caps first. I removed C1 and C3. When removing them, I broke off some of the twisty mounting tabs. This is usually the case. Once is a great while, I'm able to remove a can without breaking them off. These were really twisted!

I'll go into detail on how I re-stuff a E-Cap. Both of these caps are 4 sectioned caps. A while ago I won an auction that had like 25 E-Caps that were 4 sections with the sole purpose of using them as "donor" bases.


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File comment: Here are the 2 caps and their donors.
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File comment: I cut the originals as close to the base as I can with my band saw. I use a piece of 1/32 plywood as a shim to prop up the can because the base is larger in diameter. As I cut with the band saw, sometimes I'll rotate the cap some just to help keep the cut straight.
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File comment: Here are the results of cutting the originals. All I'm interested in are the "cans". The bases are no good to me.
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File comment: After removing the cardboard covers using my heat gun, I then cut the bases off the donor caps. This time close but not so close to the base as with the originals. Here are the results:
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File comment: Notice how much fuller the original cans are compared to the donors. Here is a picture of the original cans and the cleaned up donor bases. I clean up the bases using a brass brush and then drill a 5/32 hole in the middle. These holes were offset slightly to avoid drilling through the terminal symbols. I'll clean out the cans using a heat gun to remove the guts, and some steel wire brushes, acetone, paper towels, and Q-Tips to clean the cans.
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File comment: The donor bases are about 1/8 inch taller than the originals. Not a problem on this chassis.
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 Post subject: Re: Zenith H2447R 19" Porthole TV
PostPosted: Nov Fri 10, 2017 4:16 am 
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Location: Waxahachie Texas
Continued:


Attachments:
File comment: Next thing to do is make up some sleeves from 1 inch PVC pipe I got at Home Depot. I forgot the exact size but maybe it's 1 1/2 inch pipe. It is the thin walled stuff. The first thing I do is true up the end using my disc sander and 90 degree guide. When truing it up, I rotate the pipe about 1/2 to 3/4 turns.
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File comment: I then mark the trued up end with an arrow. This end will be glued down against the base.
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File comment: I then use my 1 inch wide ruler to make a mark 1 inch up from the trued end. I go all around the pipe.
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File comment: The marks are made all around the pipe.
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File comment: I then cut off the pipe on the line just made. I then clean up the cut end with the disc sander. I then repeat the whole process for the other sleeve starting with truing up one end.
Once I have the sleeves cut out I then de-burr them using my hobby knife and #11 blade, and some 80 grit sandpaper.

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File comment: I then use 15 minute epoxy and apply the epoxy on the trued up end being careful not to get any epoxy on the outside of the sleeve. Then the sleeve is inserted down onto the base. I then clean off any and all epoxy that has gotten onto the outside of the sleeve especially down near the base. Any epoxy here will prevent a good seam when the can is put into place.
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 Post subject: Re: Zenith H2447R 19" Porthole TV
PostPosted: Nov Fri 10, 2017 5:02 pm 
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Here is what I did to make recapping a whole lot easier. I took 2 pieces of hardwood about 5/8 by 3/4 by 12 and bolted the to the side of the chassis. This allows a comfortable tilt while I'm working.


Attachments:
100_8077a.JPG
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 Post subject: Re: Zenith H2447R 19" Porthole TV
PostPosted: Nov Sat 11, 2017 1:39 pm 
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Crist Rigotti wrote:
Here is what I did to make recapping a whole lot easier. I took 2 pieces of hardwood about 5/8 by 3/4 by 12 and bolted the to the side of the chassis. This allows a comfortable tilt while I'm working.


That's a great idea. Not complicated and just does the job. Of course, hardwood is a good idea too.

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 Post subject: Re: Zenith H2447R 19" Porthole TV
PostPosted: Nov Sat 11, 2017 3:41 pm 
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OK, lets stuff C3. This E-Cap has 4 sections to it. For section A I'm using a 22uf 500V, section B is a 39uf 350V, section C is a 100uf 100V, and section D is a 82uf 100V cap. All are 105C Nichicons.


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File comment: First thing I do is the see how well they fit into the PVC sleeve. Typically 4 will fit nicely. This gives me an idea on how to hot glue them together. I usually start with the 2 largest caps and glue them together with the negative terminals close to each other. Then the next largest and finally the smallest cap. I align the negative end of the caps to be equal. I then trim off the positive lead of each cap to about 1/4 inch in length. I then fold over the negative leads with my round nosed pliers toward the center and trim them off.
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File comment: I use solid 22awg 600V wire for the new leads. I use black for the common and then loop it around the negative leads and solder them all together.
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File comment: I then use the coil method to solder the new wires on each cap. For section A I use brown, section B is red, and so on.
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File comment: I then fold over each wire toward the middle and then fold it again to have all the wires coming out together. Again, I use round nosed pliers for this. I then secure the wires together with some lacing cord to secure them.
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File comment: I then insert the wires through the 5/32 hole I drilled into the base. I then place a mark on the wires where I want to strip them. I leave the common wire stripped a little longer like about 1/4 inch. I then trim off the excess wire length.
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File comment: Next I put a large bead of hot glue on the lacing cord knot and inset the assembly into base. I then use hot glue around the inside of the sleeve to attach the caps to the sleeve.
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File comment: I then terminate the wires on the base terminals. I typically will wrap the wires below the hole in the terminals. This leaves as much room for wires in the hole as possible. On this cap the half moon is section A, square is section B, triangle is section C, and no mark is section D. I'll terminate the common wire after the base is inserted into the chassis.
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File comment: The new base is installed into the chassis, the common wire terminated and the soldered onto the chassis. Notice I went easy on the twisty things. The next guy will appreciate that.
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 Post subject: Re: Zenith H2447R 19" Porthole TV
PostPosted: Nov Sat 11, 2017 6:28 pm 
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Location: Waxahachie Texas
Next up is C5. I used a 22uf 350V Nichicon cap. I installed a 3 position terminal strip and folded over the ground lug to keep it out of the way.

Then C6 got replaced with a Nichicon 10uf 350V cap. I used a 2 position terminal strip and soldered the ground lug to the chassis.


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 Post subject: Re: Zenith H2447R 19" Porthole TV
PostPosted: Nov Sat 11, 2017 7:49 pm 
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Location: Dallas, TX
Nice technique. The PVC tubing when you stuff the cans is a great idea.

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 Post subject: Re: Zenith H2447R 19" Porthole TV
PostPosted: Nov Sat 11, 2017 9:38 pm 
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Excellent Work Crist !
the Detail is Excellent , thank you for sharing !

Terry


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 Post subject: Re: Zenith H2447R 19" Porthole TV
PostPosted: Nov Sun 12, 2017 12:40 am 
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wiseguy wrote:
Excellent Work Crist !
the Detail is Excellent , thank you for sharing !

Terry

Thank you.

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 Post subject: Re: Zenith H2447R 19" Porthole TV
PostPosted: Nov Sun 12, 2017 12:41 am 
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Notimetolooz wrote:
Nice technique. The PVC tubing when you stuff the cans is a great idea.

Yeah it works great.

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 Post subject: Re: Zenith H2447R 19" Porthole TV
PostPosted: Nov Sun 12, 2017 12:41 am 
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Joined: Jan Sun 18, 2015 5:01 am
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Location: Waxahachie Texas
I did some chassis work this afternoon. I looked for a section that could complete and saw this section. R116 was a 2 part resistor of 200 ohms each rated at 3W. Also the Candohm resistor is 15K rated at 10W. It was open. Didn't really matter, it was going to get replaced anyway.
I replaced the 200 ohm 3W with 200 ohm 7W resistors and the Candohm was replaced with a 15K 50W chassis mount resistor. I used some heat sink compound between the resistor and chassis.


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 Post subject: Re: Zenith H2447R 19" Porthole TV
PostPosted: Nov Sun 12, 2017 1:10 pm 
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Location: Advance, NC USA
Though I'm not currently working on a TV project, I do find what you are posting
very informative. You most likely have a lot of us reading your posts.
Impressive restoration work you are doing.


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