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 Post subject: Zenith 1000 early model fixed battery case.
PostPosted: Apr Thu 20, 2017 4:51 am 
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Joined: Mar Mon 27, 2017 4:29 pm
Posts: 49
I got a an early TO model with the leather case. It was on Ebay as "untested" (does that ALWAYS mean dead?). It was dead as a doornail. I tested the battery pack: good voltage. Some of the test voltages were off. I started testing the transistors. Then I saw that the audio driver transistor slot was empty! Sure enough, I found the 121-46 stuck to the speaker! I popped it in and all bands worked!

My question: the battery case is fixed to the back door. So how do you get the chassis out? It is very dirty and needs Deox and cleaning. Do you have to take the door off with the six screws or can you actually lift that chassis past the battery case? Seems impossible.

Unfortunately, one of the front cover bottom screw attachments broke off in shipping. No way to fix without welding, and the screws on the front doors won't unscrew, so I'm not sure how to replace the door-- any suggestions? Why were those screws made so that they can't unscrew-- I noticed this on the 3000s as well.

Sad part of the story, the owner, whose name was on the radio, kept records and his last batteries were put in in 1976. The radio was filthy with dust. Google tells me he died in 1976, and his wife just died this year. So it looks like this Zenith sat around for 40 years in some attic. But still fires up!! The shortwave reception is quite good.


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 Post subject: Re: Zenith 1000 early model fixed battery case.
PostPosted: Apr Thu 20, 2017 1:55 pm 
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Joined: Mar Mon 27, 2017 4:29 pm
Posts: 49
Sorry my questions are so basic, I've just gotten into these ZTOs lately. I've attached a couple pictures to illustrate. I learned the "transistor stuck to the speaker" by poring over the posts in this forum!

First picture: the screw that broke off the bottom of the front cover is somehow split/widened at the end so it can't be unscrewed. I think this was done by Zenith-- but I don't know the word to describe it so can't look it up! If I could unscrew it, I could replace the door.

Second picture: the battery case is fixed to the back cover...can it be renewed? I saw somewhere that Zenith issued a kit to convert these to mobile battery packs. Otherwise it seems I have to unscrew the whole door to get the chassis out.

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broken door screw.jpg
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Attachment:
fixed battery case.jpg
fixed battery case.jpg [ 101.95 KiB | Viewed 1335 times ]


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 Post subject: Re: Zenith 1000 early model fixed battery case.
PostPosted: Apr Thu 20, 2017 11:32 pm 
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Joined: Aug Sat 16, 2014 2:19 am
Posts: 957
Location: Palos Verdes, CA
I used these directions to remove the Zenith 3000-1 chassis from the case:

viewtopic.php?f=4&t=196933


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 Post subject: Re: Zenith 1000 early model fixed battery case.
PostPosted: Apr Fri 21, 2017 2:23 am 
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Joined: Sep Sat 29, 2012 6:32 pm
Posts: 750
Location: Endicott, NY
I love it when I find a "missing" part is actually just stuck to the speaker magnet, although missing parts are usually not conveniently still inside the case in my experience.
Unfortunately "untested" almost always means "I tested it and it doesn't work", and sometimes you can even see batteries in the background of the auction photos!
You might be able to re-attach that lid with some 5 minute epoxy or maybe JB Weld (although I have not tried that stuff personally).
As to the damaged battery holder, you may be able to cut replacement springs out of a modern D-cell battery holder (I have done that before).


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 Post subject: Re: Zenith 1000 early model fixed battery case.
PostPosted: Apr Fri 21, 2017 5:02 am 
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Joined: Mar Mon 27, 2017 4:29 pm
Posts: 49
Thanks for the answers-- sorry this post is so boring! To get around the battery case obstacle (unique to these first production TZO 1000's I think-- the battery case is affixed to the back door)) I took off the back door. Then it was easy to remove the chassis

But the front door is very perplexing:
1) the screws holding the door onto the latches just won't unscrew. They seem designed not to unscrew.
2) However, the door is attached with 2 additional screws that screw into a thin strip of metal that attaches the door to the metal case (see photo!)
3) However, you can't unscrew these screws-- they are recessed! (see photo!)
4) So it seems to remove door you have to take the bottom off the metal case. But you can't take the bottom of the case in any simple way,

I must be overlooking something...I know some of the members must have a better way to do this!


Attachments:
door attachment strip.jpg
door attachment strip.jpg [ 99.24 KiB | Viewed 1262 times ]
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 Post subject: Re: Zenith 1000 early model fixed battery case.
PostPosted: Apr Fri 21, 2017 5:26 am 
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Joined: Aug Wed 24, 2011 4:35 am
Posts: 3772
Location: Sunnyvale CA
wold wrote:
Thanks for the answers-- sorry this post is so boring! To get around the battery case obstacle (unique to these first production TZO 1000's I think-- the battery case is affixed to the back door)) I took off the back door. Then it was easy to remove the chassis

But the front door is very perplexing:
1) the screws holding the door onto the latches just won't unscrew. They seem designed not to unscrew.
2) However, the door is attached with 2 additional screws that screw into a thin strip of metal that attaches the door to the metal case (see photo!)
3) However, you can't unscrew these screws-- they are recessed! (see photo!)
4) So it seems to remove door you have to take the bottom off the metal case. But you can't take the bottom of the case in any simple way,

I must be overlooking something...I know some of the members must have a better way to do this!


The screws are staked in place, so they won't work their way out accidentally. They threaded it through the door, then intentionally damaged the threads so they couldn't unscrew. To remove it, turn the screw in until the end is free, then cut the free end off with something like a Dremel cutoff wheel, or file the threads down to remove them on the free end, then screw it out. The way it is, you could cut the head off the same way, but would have a difficult time getting it out with no head.

Do that, and you don't need to remove the bracket that is held by the two screws. However, if you need to, remove the chassis and remove the side plate. The side is held by 4 screws and is a heavy one-piece zinc casting. You cannot remove the bottom of the case - the bottom and the front plate are one piece of aluminum in an "L" shaped part. The top comes away from the sides, and the sides come away from the bottom/front plate. BE SURE to note and keep track of where the various shims and spacers holding the top go. It is designed very poorly and the various parts have to be in the right order to go back together. It's certainly not insurmountable but if you forget where the parts go, you might spend a while trying all the different possible configurations before the sides and top line up and tighten properly.

BTW, it's actually pretty common to find missing transistors stuck to the magnet, hung up in the wiring, or rattling around loose. One good drop on the bottom or back will usually dislodge them.

Brett


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 Post subject: Re: Zenith 1000 early model fixed battery case.
PostPosted: Apr Fri 21, 2017 2:17 pm 
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Joined: Mar Mon 27, 2017 4:29 pm
Posts: 49
Brett, perfect info, thanks. Now I know that those weird screws are called "staked" screws.

The tuning mechanism is not smooth and there is a bunch of dried red/brown gunk on the string/wheel mechanism. Old dried grease? Do you have a preferred way to lubricate the tuning mechanism? I was considering spraying some deoxit into the wheels, but not sure what to do with the string.


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 Post subject: Re: Zenith 1000 early model fixed battery case.
PostPosted: Apr Fri 21, 2017 2:20 pm 
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Joined: Jan Thu 01, 1970 1:00 am
Posts: 3912
Location: Charleston, W.Va.
Hi wold,
Good advice above from Brett regarding disassembly/reassembly of the cabinet. Do not rule out the possibility of using JB Weld epoxy; this is good stuff and may very well solve the problem. I would suggest using a 1-hour epoxy rather than a 5-minute epoxy, as it results in a stronger bond. But in either case, full strength is not reached until after an overnight drying.

Regarding the battery case mounted to the back door: First of all, you are very fortunate to have one in such good condition. More commonly, the clear plastic cover is damaged or missing, as are the antenna cord and attachment nuts. And quite often the threaded studs holding the cover are also corroded or missing. If your battery contacts and springs are corroded, the easiest way is usually to purchase a couple of inexpensive plastic D-cell battery holders and rob their springs/contacts.

_________________
Poston


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 Post subject: Re: Zenith 1000 early model fixed battery case.
PostPosted: Apr Fri 21, 2017 6:35 pm 
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Joined: Aug Sat 16, 2014 2:19 am
Posts: 957
Location: Palos Verdes, CA
wold - I also found one of the transistors stuck onto the speaker when I got my Zenith 3000-1, along with other parts that had broken off during shipping (seller used no packing material when he sent the radio in a box via USPS). I used krazy glue to repair the parts that were damaged and fortunately the front latches were only slightly bent. I'd also recommend trying to use JB Weld to re-attach your broken latch as I've had good luck using it on other repairs.


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 Post subject: Re: Zenith 1000 early model fixed battery case.
PostPosted: Apr Sat 22, 2017 1:20 am 
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Joined: Mar Mon 27, 2017 4:29 pm
Posts: 49
Thanks for the suggestions! Poston, yes I was very pleased to get one of the earliest models. It has the fixed batttery case with the wavemagnet, plus the "genuine leather" covering. The bandswitch also has no set screw.
This made it even more disappointing that the front door broke in transit!
I will try Weld. The broken piece is very small. Maybe it will work! Otherwise I'll have to find another original door.


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 Post subject: Re: Zenith 1000 early model fixed battery case.
PostPosted: Apr Sat 22, 2017 3:31 am 
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Joined: Aug Wed 24, 2011 4:35 am
Posts: 3772
Location: Sunnyvale CA
wold wrote:
Thanks for the suggestions! Poston, yes I was very pleased to get one of the earliest models. It has the fixed batttery case with the wavemagnet, plus the "genuine leather" covering. The bandswitch also has no set screw.
This made it even more disappointing that the front door broke in transit!
I will try Weld. The broken piece is very small. Maybe it will work! Otherwise I'll have to find another original door.


The only one that I fixed in that area, I used JB-Weld to stick it back together. It must be fit perfectly aligned or the bond will not be very good. Once it was cured (at least one full day, a few days would be better...) I machined it very carefully with a dremel grinding wheel - relatively slow (<10000 rpm) across the break to thin out the metal to about half thickness. This included the entire tab (the one that is broken here) and about 1/2-3/4" onto the door. Don't let it get too hot or the glue might get soft. I then made a backer out of about .020 mild steel, shaped to match the door, and thick enough to make up the difference. I then JB-Welded the doubler to the flattened area. That gives substantial backing across the break. I think you probably need that, since all the cast parts are zinc and not too strong in that area. Once cured again, finish file it to shape and polish, drill and tap the hole (4-40 threads), insert new screw, and stake with a dot of glue. I recommend household cement (Duco, Ambroid, etc) on the entire thread before you screw it in- that will hold it well enough, but be removable later if necessary.

Brett


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 Post subject: Re: Zenith 1000 early model fixed battery case.
PostPosted: Apr Sat 22, 2017 4:46 am 
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Joined: Mar Mon 27, 2017 4:29 pm
Posts: 49
Thanks for the continued great advice. The radio cleaned up very nicely and underneath the grime/corrosion there was almost no pitting or bubbling (see pic). Cleaning out the tuning capacitor, and deox-ing all the contacts has made the reception great. I now just have two issues:
1) need to fix the door or get a new one.
2) There is a buzz in the speaker at higher volumes (more obvious now that the sound is much louder). I saw somewhere a post about this. But when I had the chassis out, I could see nothing wrong with the speaker! I didn't see anything loose or torn. Someone mentioned maybe there was dissolved paper but I saw nothing. Any ideas?

Attachment:
Zenith 1000.jpg
Zenith 1000.jpg [ 153.43 KiB | Viewed 1161 times ]


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 Post subject: Re: Zenith 1000 early model fixed battery case.
PostPosted: Apr Sat 22, 2017 7:26 am 
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Joined: Aug Wed 24, 2011 4:35 am
Posts: 3772
Location: Sunnyvale CA
wold wrote:
Thanks for the continued great advice. The radio cleaned up very nicely and underneath the grime/corrosion there was almost no pitting or bubbling (see pic). Cleaning out the tuning capacitor, and deox-ing all the contacts has made the reception great. I now just have two issues:
1) need to fix the door or get a new one.
2) There is a buzz in the speaker at higher volumes (more obvious now that the sound is much louder). I saw somewhere a post about this. But when I had the chassis out, I could see nothing wrong with the speaker! I didn't see anything loose or torn. Someone mentioned maybe there was dissolved paper but I saw nothing. Any ideas?




When it is buzzing, try pushing on the grill, and if that doesn't work, push on the dial glass. The construction of the front face of the radio has the radio chassis - bent aluminum plate forming the bottom and front, that the speaker connects to, then on the front of the chassis a layer of fish paper, then the grill. The only thing holding the grill on are the various plastic studs with speed nuts that go through it. This is very prone to rattling or buzzing when after a while.

I had a 3000 that had this problem very badly. I disassembled the entire cabinet, including removing all the speed nuts, etc. (breaking off most of the plastic studs, although the aluminum studs holding the speaker were OK). I then used copious quantities of 3M77 to hard-glue the fish paper to the cabinet face, then a moderate spray of 3M77 on the back of the grill (avoiding the part in front of the speaker and the fish paper to hold the grill on. Then glued everything else (like the dial glass and trim panel). Now it is solid as a rock and sounds much better.

If it's not the grill, check around for something loose (like the crazy bunch of hardware holding the top of the cabinet on). It might be anywhere, and there are lots of places for wires to rattle up against something. Tie everything down as necessary, you can fix it, although it might be frustrating.

Once everything is working, the sound quality, even on the 1000, is pretty decent so it is worth some effort.

Brett


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 Post subject: Re: Zenith 1000 early model fixed battery case.
PostPosted: Apr Sat 22, 2017 3:59 pm 
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Joined: Mar Mon 27, 2017 4:29 pm
Posts: 49
Brett,
I think you are right again, its the grill. I guess the purpose of the fish paper is to prevent dirt etc from contacting the speaker. I find those speed nuts (the bits of metal that are folded up around the central opening that grabs the studs) very annoying and hard to remove.
Lots more work to do!


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 Post subject: Re: Zenith 1000 early model fixed battery case.
PostPosted: Apr Sat 22, 2017 5:43 pm 
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Joined: Aug Wed 24, 2011 4:35 am
Posts: 3772
Location: Sunnyvale CA
wold wrote:
Brett,
I think you are right again, its the grill. I guess the purpose of the fish paper is to prevent dirt etc from contacting the speaker. I find those speed nuts (the bits of metal that are folded up around the central opening that grabs the studs) very annoying and hard to remove.
Lots more work to do!


I don't know about dirt, but think how much it would buzz if you had the stainless steel mesh loosely pushed directly up against the aluminum front plate.

The speed nuts are worthless and you will break almost all the posts off trying to remove them.

Brett


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 Post subject: Re: Zenith 1000 Speaker buzzing fixed!
PostPosted: Apr Fri 28, 2017 3:19 am 
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Joined: Mar Mon 27, 2017 4:29 pm
Posts: 49
Both problems solved!
1) For the door, I discovered that you don't have to remove the sides/back etc. If you remove the 2 side screws and the feet on the bottom, you can pry the side panel out a cm or so and unscrew the door. I found another early 1000 with leather case and put the new front door on easily (pict 1)
2) I tested the buzz with the chassis out and it seemed to be from the speaker. In this model it is only held by 4 "spring nuts". With gentle prying on one side, they come off. I looked at the speaker and a loose metal spring nut was stuck in it, held by the magnetic field! I removed this, put the speaker back, and the buzz is gone!

Now the radio plays great and I think looks good too.

Attachment:
new door.jpg
new door.jpg [ 148.93 KiB | Viewed 1048 times ]


Attachment:
spring nut in speaker.jpg
spring nut in speaker.jpg [ 96.17 KiB | Viewed 1048 times ]


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 Post subject: Re: Zenith 1000 early model fixed battery case.
PostPosted: Apr Sat 29, 2017 4:25 am 
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Joined: Sep Sat 29, 2012 6:32 pm
Posts: 750
Location: Endicott, NY
Brett_Buck wrote:
The speed nuts are worthless and you will break almost all the posts off trying to remove them.


I remove those spring clips by gripping the narrow side with pliers and unscrewing them (by pulling up on the pliers while rotating them), it chews up the posts a bit, but it doesn't break them.


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