Be aware of the proper polarity so you can get the new ones in correct. Just use enough heat to melt the solder and use a solder sucker or wick to remove as much as possible. Too much heat will separate the foil trace from the board. I would practice on a common broken junker if you're not confident enough.
This is perfect advice.
I would add for you to do one at a time, making sure of the polarity before removal, and in fact writing down (+ on left side, + next to speaker hole, etc.) the position for each one.
Use a pencil type soldering iron, 40 watts max, and the less the better.
You can get the iron, and solder braid or a solder sucker at Radio shack; either one will do the trick to remove solder.
The leads on the original caps are usually inserted into the two holes, and then bent over and soldered. I use the needle part of a safety pin to lift them up while heating the solder pad, and once removed, to open any hole where the solder remains covering it up.
Verify the capacitance values, which can also be purchased at Rat Shack. If it's powered by a nine volt battery, any rating at 10 volts or above is OK AFA voltage rating.
You can do this, just take your time at it. The money you spend on repair items instead of postage and labor costs will serve well for your next set in need of fixin'.