I have a tradio model t-u6 radio and need help with electrolytics, Thanks from a0e 1k0 nl Canada.

Here should be a link to schematic , sorry it will not work.

My question is am I correct to say A-30mfd , B-40mfd , C-20mfd .

Also am I correct to say A has r-15 connected to it and c has r-16 connected to it and both r-15 and r-16 connect to B.

Also am I correct to say A has r-15 connected to it and c has r-16 connected to it and both r-15 and r-16 connect to B.

Hi

Schematic with parts list.

http://www.nostalgiaair.org/pagesbymode ... 021846.pdf

Here is a working link for the schematic.
http://www.nostalgiaair.org/Resources/846/M0021846.htm

For the electrolytics use 33 mfd for the 30, use 47 mfd for the 40, use 22 mfd for the 20, all of these should be 250 volts

Dave

Thanks for the info and am I right about the resistors and where they attach.

I have the electrolytics done the way I think they go but the radio has a buzzing sound and r-15 and r-16 are getting hot.

The positive ends of the electrolytics go towards the resistors, the negative ends are all connected together and go to B- /filament/on-off switch.

If the electrolytics were installed backwards throw them away and start over.

Dave

I shorted out tube 35l6 somewhere along the way and now have radio playing poorly but have to change wax caps now.

Why do you power a radio with parts like Wax paper caps still in situ? There are several things to be done before applying power.

Powering is never step one. Such actions can render a set economically un-repairable due to the damage and as I am at the repair end I see, and have to repair (can't sometimes) a lot of damage caused by exuberance & an obsession with "powering to see if it works". If it has been sitting for eons it probably won't, as it was put there in the first place, because it didn't.

Marc

My reason for doing this is I have to take one cap at a time and replace because my knowledge of schematic reading , it is better in my opinion to do them one at a time.

I replace them one at a time & check resistors as I go (after assessing that its worthwhile, & transformers & wiring are sound etc). The only need for power is if the transformer needs attention & its normally isolated to do that. One does not power until they are confident that everything dodgy has been dealt with and won't cause problems when powered. Potentiometers are often the first thing that prove faulty on start up.

The right procedures will see the set fire up 95+% of the time without any major issues & you then align it.

Marc