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 Post subject: Hickok 600A tube tester
PostPosted: Mar Sun 04, 2018 2:22 am 
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All, When checking the voltages on this ( the AC filament one)

I noticed that all were over the 10% tolerance..

Lowest was about 7% highest was 19% Most were about 15%

This was setting the Line adjust to the mark..

I was using a Fluke 77 meter with the right shunt resistors to simulate the 1000 Volts /per Meter..

If I lower the voltage on say the 6.3 volt to read 6.3 volts then all look much better.. I will do that next to get % ..

Question is there a adjustment to bring the meter up to the line adjust mark with the voltage lower??


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 Post subject: Re: Hickok 600A tube tester
PostPosted: Mar Sun 04, 2018 3:09 am 
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Here are a couple of pictures..

Image


Image

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 Post subject: Re: Hickok 600A tube tester
PostPosted: Mar Sun 04, 2018 5:19 am 
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I have one of these and my voltages seemed a little off also. I did not recheck them while turning down

the set pot. I don't think it will affect the tube readings enough to have make a difference between pass and

fail. I have been using mine for a about a year and just got around to recapping it. I just use it on newly

acquired sets to make sure the tubes are not shorted and read at least fair. The real test comes in the radio.

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 Post subject: Re: Hickok 600A tube tester
PostPosted: Mar Sun 04, 2018 5:37 am 
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Greetings to Skip and the Forum:

If you are talking about filament voltages (as it appears you are) 1000 ohms/volt is not enough to load the filament circuit. I did a comparison test for someone else on a TV-7 which is a Hickok designed tube checker. In doing so, I made the measurements with a tube plugged in to load the filament circuit. This will get you closer, but all of these voltages are subject to some variance as checkers like the 600a, TV-7, etc. are designed to test tubes with widely varying filament currents. Because of this, they are a bit hot on filament voltage for low current tubes to ensure that they have enough voltage when powering high filament current tubes.

Here are the results for the TV-7: viewtopic.php?f=8&t=336162

I think that you will find that if you load the filament circuit properly with a tube that the voltages will be closer, although probably they will still be a bit high.... unless you plug in something like an 811.

Regards,

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 Post subject: Re: Hickok 600A tube tester
PostPosted: Mar Thu 08, 2018 5:06 am 
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 Post subject: Re: Hickok 600A tube tester
PostPosted: Apr Tue 03, 2018 7:15 pm 
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Ok Opened up the tester..

Image


Does anyone have a layout of the bottom on what is what? Resistors Caps Pots ETC..


Here is a resistor board?? What are the values supposed to be and what parts are they??

Image

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 Post subject: Re: Hickok 600A tube tester
PostPosted: Apr Tue 03, 2018 7:24 pm 
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The manuals for this are available online.

https://stevenjohnson.com/hickok/data/h ... manual.pdf

http://cdn.tonegeek.com/wp-content/uplo ... etyped.pdf

https://stevenjohnson.com/hickok/data.htm


http://formicapeak.com/~jimc/hickoktest.html

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 Post subject: Re: Hickok 600A tube tester
PostPosted: Apr Tue 03, 2018 7:29 pm 
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Thanks Manual gives a parts list but doesn't show a layout of what part is what..

But thanks for the Manual.. One step closer..

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 Post subject: Re: Hickok 600A tube tester
PostPosted: Apr Tue 03, 2018 7:54 pm 
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skip, you wont find a layout of the components marked. The resistor board, the resistors with slides, those are used
in the calibration process. Using a schematic, you can find your way around the unit by the component values.
Schematics may look like a wire runs all around, but sometimes they only go to another tab on the same switch.
print out multiple sheets and use a highlighter to help guide you on a circuit.

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 Post subject: Re: Hickok 600A tube tester
PostPosted: Apr Tue 03, 2018 8:34 pm 
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Ok, Thanks.. I was hoping someone might have done that.. But I guess not..

Thanks
Anyway..

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 Post subject: Re: Hickok 600A tube tester
PostPosted: Apr Tue 03, 2018 8:50 pm 
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there isn't much, transformer, rectifier area, 'resistor board' and switches.
What needs done to it?

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 Post subject: Re: Hickok 600A tube tester
PostPosted: Apr Tue 03, 2018 10:29 pm 
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Do not start making any adjustments unless you know what you are doing and know how to read the schematic. As you can see the line adjust is not referenced to the filament voltages but to the plate supply voltage. If the tester seems to be working correctly leave it alone.

ADJUSTMENT CHART
1. LINE ADJUST: The 150 volt plate supply is used as the reference when setting the AC line voltage adjustment. The AC
line control is adjusted until the plate voltage is 150 volts as read on the meter. All of the other operating voltages follow
along and are assumed to be correct. If the plate supply is abnormally high or low then adjusting it to the nominal 150 volts
with the line test will cause all of the other operating voltages to be shifted. This is because the line adjust will be
compensating for an abnormal plate supply and also affecting every other operating voltage.
If the plate supply voltage is normal and all of the other voltages are wrong by the same percentage, look at the
plate supply for problems. If the AC line test circuit itself is bad the plate and other voltages will all be wrong. If the plate
and other voltages are not correct after setting the AC line adjustment, check the resistors in the AC voltage metering
circuit R24 and R25.
Also check the meter movement and verify that it indicates full scale when passing the nominal full scale current.
Older testers used a 1.4 milliamp movement with 80 ohms of resistance. Later versions were 500 microamps and 233 ohms
of resistance. Other values may have been used as production changes were made through the years. The metal plate
mounted on the side of the meter is a factory applied magnetic shunt. By loosening the mounting screw and sliding the
plate back and forth, small adjustments can be made to the full scale deflection of the meter. Bear in mind though that
changing the meter adjustment will effect the mutual conductance reading too so rule out everything else before adjusting
the meter.


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 Post subject: Re: Hickok 600A tube tester
PostPosted: Apr Tue 03, 2018 11:14 pm 
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Here's a good write up to calibrate a 600a. Have you replaced caps c1 and c3? don't worry about the mica caps, c2 and c4.
http://formicapeak.com/~jimc/hickoktest.html
If you have any known value tubes, 6L6 to test? or a known good one that will at least show good.
I'd do the voltage checks on the calibration document, reminds me of a model 533. you'll find most checks are on.
But I'd check resistors before making any pot or tap adjustments. The brown striped resistors are carbon and may or may not be out of tolerance
I always find a mixed bag of right on and way off. The larger ones seems more stable, like 2 watt size. 1/2 watt, which most are, are usually suspect.

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 Post subject: Re: Hickok 600A tube tester
PostPosted: Apr Wed 04, 2018 1:38 am 
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Ok Following the Procedure Here is what I get..

FILAMENT VOLTAGE TEST
5. Connect an AC voltmeter to pins 2 and 7 of the octal socket. While observing the reading on the meter, rotate the FILAMENT switch from the minimum through the maximum voltage positions and verify that the voltage agrees with the setting. The readings should be within plus or minus 10% of nominal. Return the FILAMENT switch to the 6.3 volt position. ALL VOLTAGES BETWEEN 15% to 20% high

PLATE VOLTAGE TEST
6. Connect the negative lead of a DC voltmeter to pin 8 of the octal socket. Connect the positive lead to pin 3. Push the P4 GM button and read the voltage. Normal plate voltage is 150 volts plus or minus 5 volts. Release P4.
READING 10% Higher than Nominal 150 Volts

SCREEN VOLTAGE TEST
7. Move the positive lead of the DC voltmeter to pin 4 of the octal socket. Push P4 and read the screen voltage. Normal is 130 volts plus or minus 5 volts. Release P4.
REDUCED SCREEN VOLTAGE TEST (Later versions only, earlier versions do not have this.)
8. Hold P4 and press P1. The reading should drop to 56 volts plus or minus 3 volts. Release P1 and P4.
READING 10% Higher than Nominal

GRID BIAS VOLTAGE
9. Connect the negative lead of a high impedance DC voltmeter to pin 8. Connect the positive lead to pin 5. Do not use a compensating shunt resistor for this test. Adjust the BIAS control fully clockwise. Verify that the maximum voltage is –39 volts plus or minus 1 volt. Set the BIAS control to 22. Verify that the reading is –3 volts plus or minus 0.2 volt.
READING 10% Higher than Nominal EXCEPT Bias at 22 Reading -3.20 Volts

GRID SIGNAL VOLTAGE TEST
10. Set the BIAS control to zero. Connect a high impedance AC voltmeter to pins 8 and 5 and measure the grid signal voltage. Do not use a compensating shunt resistor for this test. The AC grid signal voltage should be either 5.0 volts AC plus or minus 0.250 volts or 2.5 volts AC plus or minus 0.125 volts depending on the age and production run of your tester. Older versions used 5 volts while later versions used 2.5 volts.
READING 10% Higher than Nominal NOTE: mime was the 2.5 Volt

So looks like everything is about 10% high on voltages EXCEPT Filament which is 15% to 20% High..

PS This is using the proper Shunt resistors ..on Meter to get the right loading..

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 Post subject: Re: Hickok 600A tube tester
PostPosted: Apr Wed 04, 2018 1:10 pm 
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what meter are you using o get the voltages? what's the impedance on it?
I use a B&K 360 VOM, I think its 5k.
refer to the 533 procedure, it shows the differences. https://elektrotanya.com/hickok_model_5 ... nload.html

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 Post subject: Re: Hickok 600A tube tester
PostPosted: Apr Wed 04, 2018 4:19 pm 
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I use a Fluke 77.. But with the Shunt resistors to measure the 150 Volt I use a 250K Resistor in Parallel.

But I also have a Simpson 260 I could use it has 20,000 Ohms/VDC and on AC it 5,000/VAC..

I have a TS-505D/U VTVM that I use to align Military R-390'S.


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 Post subject: Re: Hickok 600A tube tester
PostPosted: Apr Wed 04, 2018 6:54 pm 
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Say in calibrating the Hickok 533 I just finished, using a DMM the voltages were too high, going to the preferred meter, they were
right on or pretty close, it only needed the grid voltage adjusted I believe, with a tap on the resistor, which I knew I had bumped earlier
and knew it would be off a bit, but I saw the expected voltages with the B&K 360.
So you're probably good, the filaments are high per setting as they may supply different 6v filament tubes, like a 6L6 vs a 6L5, will be a big difference.
Designers no doubt went higher on filament tolerance due to the tubes short time in tester, better to error on the high than low side which would show tubes prematurely bad when they are in fact not. And maybe to stress the filaments a bit in testing, you're more assured they will work fine in a consumers set under normal conditions.
The guy on eBay who sells 3/6 dollar tubes marks his MU readings on the box, good place to get a reference tube, forget which Hickok he uses, thinking a TV7.
But yours sounds good, run it.

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 Post subject: Re: Hickok 600A tube tester
PostPosted: Apr Thu 05, 2018 2:05 am 
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ok, I'm at home now and can look at my notes. The B&K 360 is 20k DC, 5K AC.

On step 4 for the 533, testing P4. Target is 190v on a 20k meter, 150v on a 1k meter.
Using my 20meg DMM I read 202v, using the 360 I get 190v.

Step 3 is filament, which states with no load they will be "slightly" higher, slight is a matter of opinion

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 Post subject: Re: Hickok 600A tube tester
PostPosted: Apr Thu 05, 2018 3:49 am 
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Sounds good .. When I use the Simpson 360 it reads 190 Volts.. So I guess I am good to go..

Thanks
for all the help..

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