I have the revision C that shows the 1.5 K resistor (R-36) off pin 5 of V-2 going to B+ line. T-1 also has a lead with a .1 (C-38) mfd cap across it that also goes to L-9 and to the B+ line. I will get a copy done tomorrow and could mail it to you via post office. What is the serial number of your unit? <P>------------------<BR><BR>

Hi Jim,<P>Unfortunately, I don't know. The guy I bought it from had spray-painted the case without masking the serial number sticker. I've tried to read through the paint, and even to remove it, but nothing has worked.<P>------------------<BR>

Erik said:<BR>---<BR>Unfortunately, I don't know. The guy I bought it from had spray-painted the case without masking the serial number sticker. I've tried to read through the paint, and even to remove it, but nothing has worked.<BR>---<P>OOops, that would probably be me. My bad.<P>The black 288x was badly painted when I got it. I'm guilty of spraying more black over it. I looked for a serial label but couldn't find one. Now I know why....<P>I changed a few caps in that thing to get it working and used it a lot. I finally got a schematic and had planned to finish the restoration but never got around to it. I probably would have run into the same revision issue when verifying resistance values.<P>I had planned to strip and repaint the case also. Sorry about the paint.<P>Fred<P><P>------------------<BR>

Hi Fred,<P>No trouble at all. It sounds like it was already covered over when you got it, and it really doesn't make a difference anyway, since I've never seen anything that matches 288X serial numbers with schematic revision numbers. It seems to be a manual process in any case.<P>------------------<BR>

Here's the 1-2-46 manual in djvu format:<BR> <A HREF="http://oldradio.ca:83/Radio/288X/" TARGET=_blank>http://oldradio.ca:83/Radio/288X/</A> <P>(available eastern daytime only)<P>I never know if it's Jan 2'nd or Feb 1'st - wouldn't standard dating be nice?<P>And I'll send it to Ken Grimm at BAMA also.<P>------------------<BR>John Bartley<BR>-----<BR><I>If you slow down it takes longer,<BR>- does that apply to life also? </I>

That one is already on Bama<P>Dave<P>------------------<BR>Intelligence is the ability to use your knowledge

<P>Thanks - good to know - saves waiting to get a space on the ftp server.<P><P>------------------<BR>John Bartley<BR>-----<BR><I>If you slow down it takes longer,<BR>- does that apply to life also? </I>

<B><P>Thanks - good to know - saves waiting to get a space on the ftp server.<P></B><P>An easier way is to use the YouSendIt gadget. Look for the red print and a "Send Us A File" link about half way down the home page at the main BAMA site. It's through some third party, and there's no waiting.<P><P>------------------<BR>

<P>Thanks Erik - I'll have a look.<P>------------------<BR>John Bartley<BR>-----<BR><I>If you slow down it takes longer,<BR>- does that apply to life also? </I>

Gents, I'm in the same Hickok boat, but five years later
Based on this thread, I think my set would be either the 288AX or the 288X J,K revision. I also have the V2-6SN7 w/47k resistor. I searched the gallery, but did not find schematics, nor did these appear to be on BAMA. (I do have the 617W schematic).

I know this was an old post, but do any of you gents still have electronic copies handy?
cheers

What schematic do you have now that is incorrect?

Dave

I have the schematic from the instruction manual available on BAMA. My set does not have the same wiring, and a few different parts, etc.

PM me your email and I will send you some different ones

Dave

Thanks MAG and EasyRider8 for the schematic versions for the 288.

It turns out that mine is electrically a 288AX (matching the 999w drawing), before they changed to the newer-style cabinet. Recapping now, and testing everything prior to power-up...

Cheers
SmoothOsc

I just picked one of these up at a swap meet.Does the paper wheel on the right have a cover? Mine doesn't and is getting soiled. Mine came with a copy of the manual with color cover and end sheets, so it seems to be off an original, not a PDF. I haven't cracked it open as I am still working on the tube tester 533A.
I have a HP, but the Hickok sure is a better looking machine. And it has a manual. Any thoughts on which is better? I do not want both and being a noob the manual means a lot.
Thatch

Yes, it should have a cover, bakelite escutcheon and the cover has the band numbers stamped into it. You might start looking for a parts-set.

Mine came with a manual too, but I soon found that my set was electrically different. If you find this to be the case I can forward on some schematic versions that other members sent to me. I was unaware Hickok would make design changes on-the-fly without changing model numbers (and ostensibly failing to note this in the manuals).

Hickok equipment is definitely cool. I've always liked the ergonomics and design: spacious layout, big knobs, big meters, etc. I wish I still had the huge Hickok VTVM I had when I was 12

I'm not sure of this unit's quality vs and HP (which model?). Another ARFer mentioned that the Hickok was a little cumbersome to use, and I suspect that may be true as the manual shows a chart of settings you'd make for different operations.

In my case I wanted a sweeper, and after a lot of research decided on this unit - I like old stuff and the budget was just right

I took silver smithing for 2 years in college and just love the chasing on these Hickoks. I know it was machine done, but somebody had to draw it up the first time.
The HP has an orange number stenciled on the top but the little plate with the model is gone and on the back there is only a serial number. It has 6AV6 power tubes and is truly ugly compared to the Hickok. Not a reason for choosing equipment but if they are fairly equal then I would keep the Hickock.

I want to be able to keep a Fisher 400 working for as long as my body does, so aligning is something I need to learn.
When I pull the cover off I will see what is what with the manual. Hopefully everything is as should be. Thanks.

The price was right on both the machines, so that is not an issue.
Thatch

First off, ARF is great! Found a thread discussing my exact situation. The schematic I have is Alteration B. My situation is around the dual 20mf electrolytic C31. R22 is there but there is also another resistor in series with it before connecting to the other half of the cap. Its value is 620ohms.
Does the alteration C drawings have anything to do with this?
There are only 2 lugs on the cap so am I to assume that ground is internally connected to the can?

Happy gobble gobble day!

Ray

The later military model used 2000 ohms there. Perhaps the previous owner was compensating for higher line voltage. The higher resistance won't do any harm, so you may as well leave it.

Thanks Allen. Feel better about that. One more question about that particular area. Anymore questions I have, I'll start a new thread. According to the service instructions, I should get a reading of 150v for the power supply voltage. I'm reading 205v (just after the 1.8k resistor). And 270v directly off V5 pin 8.