This dial face is off of a Zenith 7-S-258. Obviously the outer section of the shutter dial. All of the shutters and the assembly are in very good shape except for this outer piece. Rust at the bottom of the dial. I was thinking just lightly sand it being careful not to disturb the artwork and then use a black spray paint to clean it up. But it'll never be a match. Other part of me says to leave it alone. Not that bad. But the rust will only get worse over time.

Any ideas on what any of you would do with it?

Thanks,
Johnny

Either try and find a good original by posting here in the classifieds or strip the whole thing and apply a new decal from radio daze.

The dial lamps on these sets are so harsh that they amplify every little flaw so the perfectionist in me is guessing that any repair that is made won't pass muster once finished.

There is an automotive rust converting primer that is an aerosol. It changes the brown rust to a black oxide while, itself, is translucent light smoky gray in color when dry. Vehicle is alcohol so it should not dissolve the existing finish, however, test in obscure area before going forward. I would attempt applying rust converting primer with a soft bristle brush, utilizing the contents of spray can sprayed into a cup for use...

This is a suggestion, I have NOT actually tried this method, but have used the rust converting primer on a vehicle in difficult areas, works fine.

If it is kept off of the legends, nothing to loose by trying...

Frost the dial lamp to subdue any tendency to reveal dial flaws...

Chas

#000 steel wool and magic marker.

[quote="classicradiorepair"]Either try and find a good original by posting here in the classifieds or strip the whole thing and apply a new decal from radio daze.
********************
If you strip it, be prepared for a challenge. My 9S-244 shutter dial was terrible when I acquired it (first pic below). Completely sanded, sprayed new paint, and applied decal (2nd pic below). I hope I never have to do that again. And remember, you have the shutters to do beside the main stationary part. The dial's colors won't be matched if you only do one part.

Your's isn't all that bad...right?


Art

It's a lot worse then the picture Art. But just the one piece I posted here. All the shutters are beautiful. With a completely restored cabinet and chassis it's gonna stand out like the proverbial sore thumb. Radio Daze doesn't answer their phone any more so I left them a voice mail to let me know what the part number of the new decal is. They haven't returned my call and their gone for the day today. I'm on PST so I got up at 4am just to make sure I caught them just to find out they don't answer their phone 'till 10am EST. They don't have all the pics associated with their part numbers yet on the rebuilt web site.

That is one rough looking shutter dial assy. you had there. Looks beautiful now. When I strip any metal parts I usually put an automotive finish back on them. Sand between coats of primer etc. Maybe an overkill but I sure get nice finishes. Couple of questions if you don't mind. I get the impression it was a bear to do. Were the decals just hard to position? And did you use a "satin" black, gloss etc? Do you remember the part number of the decals set? I imagine it came as a set depending on which shutter assy. you have. Maybe they're all the same. I don't know. Worked on a lot of shutter dials but the ones I had were always in really good shape so I never paid that much attention to the artwork between the different models.

Appreciate the help!

Johnny

Johnny try some black auto polish. It is sold at auto parts stores. I have had some luck with it. It will fill the low spots. Let it dry well and lightly buff.

plus 1

Good suggestion. I've used this black polish on my car and its pretty thin but I could see it working. I've actually used black shoe polish on a dial that had some hazing - covered it up nicely.

That is one rough looking shutter dial assy. you had there. Looks beautiful now. When I strip any metal parts I usually put an automotive finish back on them. Sand between coats of primer etc. Maybe an overkill but I sure get nice finishes. Couple of questions if you don't mind. I get the impression it was a bear to do.*********Well, it was very time consuming and tedious. You need a VERY steady hand on this one. The compound curves are really tricky to work on. As you can see, it turned out well.*********** Were the decals just hard to position? *****Yes, they would have been, but somewhere along the way someone suggested using "MicroSol." It's a decal setting solution and I wouldn't even try putting decals on a dial like this again without it. MicroSol lets you work it longer to get the decal into the correction postion before it dries and wants to stick---where you don't want it to stick!

It will soon be 8 years since I worked on this. I assume MicroSol is still out there although I have not purchased any since then. I used some of my leftover supply a couple of years ago and it still was good so I think if you cap it tightly it will be okay for a long time.**********And did you use a "satin" black, gloss etc? ********I used a satin spray paint. I don't remember the brand right now but sprayed it more than once to get good coverage.*******Do you remember the part number of the decals set?**********No I don't. At that time, I got my decals from Rock Sea Enterprises in California but he went out of business. I THINK he told me that his inventory was going to Slusser at Radio Daze. **** I imagine it came as a set depending on which shutter assy. you have. *********Yes it did. ***********Maybe they're all the same. I don't know. *********No they are NOT the same. Your Z is a 1938 model. The next year, Zenith used a different type of number (font) on the shutter dials. You have to look carefully to see the difference but it is noticeable. Be sure to get the 1938 version. Wish I knew the decal part #. I went to look for it in my filing cabinet but couldn't find it. I guess after I knew Rock Sea went out of business, I threw that file away. Shouldn't have done that. But I would guess Radio Daze has it numbered correctly (for the year). Good luck.

BTW, I did save and find an instruction sheet I got somewhere with good tips on using the setting solution and working with decals. Would be happy to share it if you decide to change it out and not use some of the other suggestions here.*********

Thanks for the tip

http://offer.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll

I called Radio Days. Your talking around $90 for the set to do the 3 dials. Can't do just one as color will not match.

They could not tell me what they looked like or how to apply them hints. No Help at all

Sooooo How did you find the larger one as far as applying?? Was it is more thgan one section ?

Kinda Pricey for decals, but then what other fix is there.

Bob T.

I didn't pay anywhere near $90! Ouch. But I'm sure pricing has gone up since 7 years ago and a different owner. Large decal was all one piece IIRC and tricky but managable with the MicroSol; However, you might want to cut it to make it easier. All the shutters were separate as was the center hub.

Wait for a junker chassis to popup on ebay that has a good dial. Sell what parts you don't use.

Hi Art, I'm gonna go for it on the complete decal replacement. Can't be much tougher then pulling the RF section out of a Philco 46-480.

I looked up the MicroSol and their decal solution is still available. I've put a link here so you can tell me it's the same stuff. Sounds like it.
http://www.microscale.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=MI-2&Category_Code=FINPROD&Product_Count=0
Are the directions on the bottle fairly straight forward or is there anything you noticed that I should know?

And David, I partied with Frank Zappa in Lancaster, CA in the early 70's. One heck of an artist. Had this phone booth inside the Delta Lady Saloon. Fancy. Made out of wood. He locked himself in there one night for hours and when he finally emerged the inside of that phone booth had some of the most unique but well done artwork I'd ever seen. Short of Vincent Willem van Gogh of course.

Johnny

@ Johnny,

Yes, directions on the reverse side of the bottle. Hopefully it will allay some of your fears. The caveat on their website is also good. I would order 2 bottles so you have plenty to work with on those large decals.

Good luck...and be patient! BTW, the brush mentioned does NOT come w/Microsol. Use a small soft artist's brush.
Art

(Even made in the U.S.A.)

Thanks Art! I've got some old Philco decals that I can afford to destroy so I think I'll definitely experiment with those first. It was my understanding that the MicroSol product gave one the ability to keep moving the decal into position until it was where you want it then you walk away. Once the decal is applied over top of this product is that where the decal is? No working it around into position? I ask because I'm taking the earlier advice and splitting this decal and I'll need the time to line up the cut edges.

Johnny

Good idea! Practice on something before you do the Zenith decal. Yes, the Microsol gives one the ability to adjust the decal more than if you just put it on the metal after it separates from the paper. Be sure to coat the metal well w/Microsol before you lay the decal on it. You can move it much easier if necessary than if you don't use Microsol (which I found out the hard way on another project). You should have time to adjust the lines, etc. on the decal if you use plenty of the product.

Once it's in place to your satisfaction is when you coat it with a second coat of the Microsol. Then you should leave it alone. Don't touch as the bottle directions say. I don't know what the difference is between the first two bottles on that website link. It states they're out of the bottle with the red ink but have the bottle with the blue ink. The label words look the same to me. If you're close to a shop that caters to model trains, etc. they probably have it in stock because I know a modeler who uses it for affixing decals on his r. r. cars, engines, etc.

If I can be of further help, let me know.
Art

The blue bottle is Microset which you use before placing the decal to get good wetting and aid in positioning the decal.

The red bottle is Microsol, which dissolves the decal film and helps it settle in around compound curves such as the teensy simulated rivets on model railroad cars. DO NOT use the red Microsol until the decal is perfectly positioned, otherwise you'll end up with a torn mess.

Best regards,
-Steve

That is the oppisite of what it says on the bottle shown in above post !!!!!!!!
Am I reading it wrong ?

Bob T.

Sorry, I had the colors correct but the names reversed. I edited my original post to correct it.

Best regards,
-Steve