Bruce-- I'm speechless. That is THE coolest thing I've ever seen. If I hadn't read "miniature" I wouldn't have known that the radio room wasn't life size. Thanks for sharing. Beyond awesome.

P.S. Those ceiling lights really light up I'm assuming? What a cool display, I'm in awe.

[quote="y2k Bruce"]In January I asked that fellow who makes the miniature radio shops (Walter Buffinton) to develop an EH Scott room for me.
He decided to call it an EH Scott Museum from 1925-1940 or so and all the radios shown here were his ideas and designs. His research was very impressive.

Ironically he had an original Scott table top wood case he used as the main box.

If you know your Scotts you will be able to identify and appreciate his accurate details and models.
He wanted to include every Scott chassis offered over those years.


That is amazing and fantastic!!! great job he did with them!!

Unpacked a newly acquired Crosley tonight.......




It still has liquid in it sooo.....it should work....right??
My wife does not share my enthusiasm. Maybe it was my explanation that it's kinda like The Mosquito Coast movie.

Maybe... it should have both water and ammonia in it. You'll also 'need' a kerosene lamp to use it.

"We had no electricity, and our icehouse was not big enough to supply us with ice all summer. So we used the icyball. There was a daily routine to keep an icyball running. The following procedure was for the very icyball now in the Henry Ford Museum.
The Canadian version of the device came with a cooling chest that looked like a modern freezer, with the door opening upwards. It also required a large tub for water to cool one ball of the device, a mounting bracket to steady the device on the edge of the tub, and a blue-flame kerosene burner mounted in a tray. On one side of the burner tray was the burner and on the other side, connected by a tube, was an upturned cup into which you would fit a little tin of kerosene. The little tin of kerosene had a domed cap that had two small holes in it, so as to allow the kerosene to slowly dribble into the burner cup, tube, and burner. Fastened to the tube that went between the can and the burner was a float level.
In the morning when we got up, we would start a fire, and put a kettle on to boil water for coffee. We would be careful to boil more water than we needed for coffee.

After you had poured out the water you needed for coffee, you would remove the icyball from the chest, and upend it, hot ball downward. (The handle had a bracket to support the device in this position.) You would pour a few cups of boiling water over the cold ball. After much gurgling you would carry the device to the water tub, which was about three feet high. First you would immerse the hot ball in the tub for a few seconds, just to fill a small reservoir on the top of the hot ball with water attached to a whistle. You would then reverse the device, hot ball outside and the cold ball in the water, resting the device on the edge of the tank. Then you would tend to the burner.

You would fill the little can with kerosene and screw the lid on. You would then tip the filled can upside down into the waiting burner can, and light the burner, positioning it under the hot ball. (The burner was not adjustable, and had an asbestos wick.) You could then go about your chores for the morning.

Later, when all the kerosene had been consumed, the water in the hot ball reservoir would boil, blowing a whistle to alert you that the burning was done. (Our whistle had been broken years ago, but we could hear the whistle from our neighbour's icyball.)

Then you would switch the position of the hot and cold balls, putting the hot ball in the tub water (hiss!), and in a few minutes the cold ball would be covered in ice, and ready to be returned to the chest for the day. (The cold ball had a hole through it, into which you could put a small metal ice cube tray.)

Once you got used to this routine, the icyball worked beautifully. It was certainly better than burying your food in the ground to try to preserve it."

Thanks, I've seen some of this type of info before and even found scans of original instructions.

I'm wondering if the ammonia mix is corrosive and would it be safe to heat up? Kinda thinking it would have rusted through by now it that was a problem. When these were new Crosley had an advertising story of how a dealer's store had burned down, they recovered one of these from the ashes, and it still worked! So the the original pressure vessel design was safe.

Speaking of Crosley, I acquired this gem in 1997:





I took some pictures of it after I got it home (actual picture of it here on Jim's Crosley radio site: http://www.crosleyradios.com/1126.html), then put it in the loft over my garage where it's sat for nearly 15 years. I just hauled it out and put it in our dining room and started restoration of the chassis.

You don't see too many Crosley 1199/1126's.

-Matt

My NOS Z pointer for my Zenith beehive shown a few pages back arrived. Perfect transaction.

400+ 78's with 400 in 40 binders then a few loose for $80. Looks to be mostly 40's labels with the red Columbias, black and purple Capitols, Deccas etc. The usual suspects of Bing, Sinatra, Andrews Sisters etc. But it seems this sellers dad, RIP, bought these and into the binders they went to never be played. Mint perfect condition on these.

I traded for this Webster-Chicago model 256 record changer for my Magnavox Regency Symphony 155-B.
Larry

Four NOS AX-301-A and one NOS UX-201-A, all of which test perfectly, and a CX-301-A that has low emissions but would probably be workable still were in a five-large-box lot of tubes I bought on Craigslist. And quite a few 41 42 6A7 6D6 75 78 80 83 as well.

Pre WWII test equipment catalogs are hard to find.
I'll be posting this entire 1940 RCA catalog on my web site at some point.

Here it is:
http://www.stevenjohnson.com/rca/rca-catalog105.htm

Just picked up a Philco 640 that I won off of eBay for $56-. The guy was local so I saved on shipping.



Knobs aren't original but I think I've got a set kicking around somewhere.

Anyone have the Chevron grill cloth stashed away that they would be willing to sell???

- Geoff

Large chevron like on the 38-116??? And how big a piece?

It's the smaller chevron like this 650:



- Geoff

Picked this little guy up on The Bay for 19 bux on a BIN;


It answers to the name of Automatic Radio/Tom Thumb model 528, and is barely bigger than a six Transistor set.
Received it yesterday and am in the process of attempting to revive the chassis, which I'll put in another better case I have in my boneyard, once I have it working.
I've found that one prevalent failure on these pocket tube sets, is an open audio output transformer.

Now I need to ask Radio Pup if she can locate a tuning knob, lol. That "tire" doesn't cut it.

Is that "knob" a phonograph idler?

I went to a hamfest today and got a few items. I got about three boxes of tubes for about what one or two tubes would cost. There are some TV tubes I probably won't need but enough of them to make it worth the cost.



Then I got this power supply. Its setup as a adjustable power supply but it is on the highest voltage. I haven't took a look at it to see if it has a internal setting to go from adjustable to full voltage yet. I really like it and hope to get it adjustable. The price was a great deal if I can get it to adjust.



I also got these project boards. I got them all for about the cost of one or two would have been . Can't pass up a deal like that.



And the best piece I got was this poster. I got it from Radiopup. The piece is huge. I have to get some type of frame for it. The frame will be easy but the plexglas will be a big piece. Its about 32x44. Its a really nice piece for my shops wall. I have it folded back up until I get a frame for it. I really like it and all I need to do is find a few more pieces for my shop.

Nice stuff Willy.
The tube diagram is cool too. Not just any old tube either, it's a LOKTAL

Found a Hickok 800

Now, I need to learn all the capabilities of it. I know it has a simple Good / Bad scale, but I know there are other tests that can be performed.

ROLL... DO NOT FOLD.... ROLL.

You know, I couldn't put my finger on what it was, but you may be dead on, lol!


Is that model a mutual conductance tester, Gary? If so, great find!