I have been trying to find plain naptha in my area, with little success. Every paint store and big box store I go into never even heard of the stuff. When I was younger and used to go camping with my parents, you could pretty well stop at any gas station and get some (white gas) for the camp stove. Knowing this, I can find Coleman Naptha at the local Hardware store (it says on the container that it contains Rust inhibitors for the stove). Now if I look at the ingredients on the can it says it only contains Naptha petrolium. (nothing is said about the rust inhibitors). Is this safe for either wiping down cabinets, or mixing with earth pigment powders ? I'm worried about contamination from these supposed Rust Inhibitors.<BR>Standard recipe for mixing stain calls for 4 oz. of powder (earth pigment powder) to be ground in oil to be diluted with a mixture of equal parts turpentine, naptha, and boiled linseed oil. Does that mean 4 oz. each of turpentine , naptha and linseed oil ? It also says, if using under lacquer to mix in some Japan drier thinned with turpentine, (it dosen't say what ratio). Anyone familiar with this type of stain. I'm trying to get the cabinet trim as dark as possible, not worried about the grain.<BR>Thanks..<BR>Tony <P>------------------<BR>

Tony...<P>I don't know about present-day camp stove and lantern fuel...It seems to me that this has a somewhat oily feel to it last time I checked which may play havoc with the mixing and/or drying properties of your stain and glazing mediums...But I don't really know.<P>It's hard to imagine that paint store personnel do not know about naphtha, THE basic solvent and ingredient in all oil and alkyd paint and finishing products!<P>Why not seek out mineral spirits or preferably ordorless mineral spirits?...Just a step down from naphtha on the refining chain...Doesn't evaporate quite as fast as naphtha and isn't as pure in some cases, but I've used it countless times to do just what you describe in your posting...Wiping down furniture and cabinets prior to making repairs or adjustments to original finishes and wiping down prepared wood surfaces before adding stain or other mediums.<P>As far as mixing rare earth powders in solvent and oil, there is no formula set in concrete here...You can change the ratio of powder to solvent and oil to suit your needs for the project at hand...But to start with, I would first mix a small quantity of equal parts oil and naphtha (or mineral spirits) or turpentine and then add the rare earth powder to achieve the pigmented density needed to stain the workpiece to my satisfaction...If you overshoot in density somewhat, you can quickly remove the applied pigment from your workpiece with a cloth dampened with solvent...If you undershoot in density, add more rare earth powder...You will have to keep stirring the contents because the rare earths are a precipitate and will migrate to the bottom of your container as is the case with nearly all non-gel, pigmented oil stain products.<P>Adding Japan dryer to your newly mixed stain will speed the evaporative process by significant measure...I should think that for starters you may want to try adding about 5-percent by volume...This may be enough...I've never run into any problems with this added ingredient, always keeping it under 10-percent by volume...And I've never run into problems substituting naphtha for turpentine...Some purists would object, but from my experience, the substitution works without problem.<P>One final note: I am pretty fussy about the solvents I use when working with finishing materials...For oil and alkyd materials I always seek out the best naphtha I can find which is termed VMP Naphtha (Varnish Makers and Painters Naphtha)...That way I have a measure of confidence there are no unpleasant surprises down the line caused by unknown ingredients (read: contaminents)...Does mineral spirits or orderless mineral spirits work?...You bet, but then I am mentally more on-guard for problems, often making small tests, including sealing and topcoating with (usually) lacquer away from the intended workpiece just to be sure.<P>My two-cents worth.<P>Bruce<BR>WC5CW <P>------------------<BR>

"Rust inhibitors" might be simply alcohol. You could try evaporating a sample and see if it leaves a residue.<P>------------------<BR>

OSH has naptha solvent, in my area, Central Kalifornia. <P>I see you are in Ontario. Maybe there is some wacky enviornmental law crashing your party. <P>------------------<BR>

Bruce, thanks for your invaluable tips. When I tried Google for Earth Pigments, all I could find was vague information about mixing.<BR>Alan, about the Big Box stores and paint stores. It seems that because there isn't much call for it, they don't seem to carry it (Home Depot), also the sales clerks NEVER even heard of the stuff. I couldn't believe it.It was pretty comical the looks I got when I asked if they had Naptha. Oh, well I'll try the Mineral spirits instead.<BR>Thanks Guys..<BR>Tony<P>------------------<BR>

Lighter fluid is napthalene. Might be too expensive, though.<P>Tom<P>------------------<BR>

There seems to be confusion (especially in me!) about the difference between naphtha and naphthalene. (note the spelling: there's a "phth" in the middle of each). I could only get this from the dictionaries:<P>Naphthalene: A white crystalline compound, C10H8, derived from coal tar or petroleum and used in manufacturing dyes, moth repellents, and explosives and as a solvent. Also called tar camphor.<P>Naphtha: Any of several highly volatile, flammable liquid mixtures of hydrocarbons distilled from petroleum, coal tar, and natural gas and used as fuel, as solvents, and in making various chemicals.<P>------------------<BR>

<P>Try asking for LAVA soap. They turn their heads sideways (like a dog) and say "whatever is on the shelves"<P>------------------<BR>-Mike

Naphthalene is moth crystals - solid, comes in a box. Naphtha is a liquid, e.g., lighter fluid. My organic chemistry is a little rusty, so I can't rattle off the chemical formulas or draw the molecular diagrams.<P>Note: correct spelling is "naphtha," not "naptha." That, I do know.<P>------------------<BR>**********<BR>Doug Criner <A HREF="http://www.enginova.com" TARGET=_blank>http://www.enginova.com</A>

Would it not be easier to buy some stain or toner ?<P>------------------<BR>

I actually tracked down some naptha. I had to go to an Industrial Paint supplier. It is the VM+P grade. It cost a whopping $38.00 Canadian for a gallon (4 litres). <BR>Tony<P>------------------<BR>