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Crown D-150A power amp problem Goto page 1, 2  Next
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tubular bob
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Joined: 01 Jan 1970
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Location: Richmond, IN

Posted: Nov Tue 03, 2009 12:36 pm  Reply with quote

I recently acquired a Crown D-150A power amp that has some serious distortion in the lower frequencies. Any ideas as to where to start looking for problem areas?

Thanks in advance!
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Dave Doughty
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Posted: Nov Tue 03, 2009 1:29 pm  Reply with quote

I would first check or replace the electrolytic filter caps in the power supply.

Dave
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Johnnysan
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Posted: Nov Tue 03, 2009 2:07 pm  Reply with quote

Check for connections that were never soldered at the factory. I picked up a D-150A from a guy who said there was no output (I figured blown output transistors). Turns out the cables going to the binding posts were never even soldered.
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SMITHY
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Location: OOLTEWAH,TN.

Posted: Nov Tue 03, 2009 7:32 pm  Reply with quote

As old as it is i would replace all of the elec . caps. i did in my two Mc's MC2100 and they sound great much better i used Vishay/Sprague and Nichicon low impedance from Mouser . SMITHY
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Bruce Hagen
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Joined: 15 Jun 2006
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Location: NE Ohio

Posted: Nov Tue 03, 2009 7:39 pm  Reply with quote

Crown has a parts department yet. 219-294-8000. May not be (219) though as some of the area codes have changed. If you need a print I think that I have it. Just advise.

Offer on print rescinded. Seems I've lost my 150A manual. If anyone has a D150A manual to spare and would like to trade for an other Crown manual I have several different duplicates.

Please rescind the recinded.
Have the manual again if anyone needs same.
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Bruce


Last edited by Bruce Hagen on Nov Wed 04, 2009 11:08 pm
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tubular bob
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Location: Richmond, IN

Posted: Nov Wed 04, 2009 2:40 am  Reply with quote

Thanks for all the replies. I love this place!

When I get a chance in the near future, I'll open it up and see what I can find. If there are no obvious problems, like unsoldered connections, I'll replace the electrolytics.
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tubular bob
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Posted: Nov Thu 05, 2009 1:30 am  Reply with quote

Bruce,
Does your schematic have a note that states a 1 0hm resistor (if I recall, it's R9) will help with low frequency oscillation? I originally called this problem a low fequency distortion, but it does seem to be more of a low frequency oscillation.
Any experience in this area?
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Bruce Hagen
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Posted: Nov Thu 05, 2009 2:37 am  Reply with quote

Don't remember. Manual sent.
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N7RHU
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Location: Seattle WA US

Posted: Nov Thu 05, 2009 3:40 am  Reply with quote

Crown service manuals for discontinued models, including the D-150 are available free from the factory site:

http://www.crownaudio.com/gen_ ... gacamp.htm


--Chuck
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tubular bob
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Location: Richmond, IN

Posted: Nov Thu 05, 2009 12:42 pm  Reply with quote

I already have the orginal manual for my D-150A. I am asking if anyone has had experience in the area of low-frequency oscillation or distortion on this particluar model.

Thanks.
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Dave Doughty
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Posted: Nov Thu 05, 2009 12:46 pm  Reply with quote

Does the oscillation occur all by itself or do you have to have audio playing to make it happen? Is it constant or intermittent?

Dave
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tubular bob
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Location: Richmond, IN

Posted: Nov Thu 05, 2009 1:36 pm  Reply with quote

Dave,
I have noticed this while playing audio and have not taken time to test otherwise. It seems to be more constant than intermittent, although it also seems to be very dependant upon the type of signal, it occurs with a lot of lower fequencies (bass). I am using Electrovoice Sentry III speakers and do not have this problem with other amplifiers.

Any suggestions as to where to look for the problem in the chassis?
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Dave Doughty
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Posted: Nov Thu 05, 2009 2:08 pm  Reply with quote

As suggested earlier, I would suspect bad (high ESR) filter caps in the power supply. Be sure all of the connections are tight first.

Amazingly, I find that I have the complete service manual for this unit (even though I don't have the amp). There are 5 or 6 schematic revisions including the note about R-9. Oscillation must have been a common problem with certain speaker set-ups. But I can't find R-9 in any of the schematics.

Dave
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tubular bob
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Posted: Nov Fri 06, 2009 12:45 pm  Reply with quote

Dave,
It appears to me that the R9 is installed between the chassis ground and the line ground. Does that make any sense?
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desertbard
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Posted: Nov Fri 06, 2009 2:16 pm  Reply with quote

tubular bob wrote:
Dave,
It appears to me that the R9 is installed between the chassis ground and the line ground. Does that make any sense?


Chassis ground and line neutral are seldom at the same potential. You'd think they would be, but that is not the case most times. By having a resistor between them, you set that difference in potential to a known minimum or below.

In the older homes in El Paso ground goes through the conduit which while iron is at least 3/4 an inch outside diameter. The line neutral goes through the building wiring on good copper wire. I've measured up to 30 volts difference between the two, but when I tried to connect them to another ground point together - like one in the ham shack, the ground fault interrupt in the bathroom tripped. Under the advice of another ham, I connected them together through .01 pf safety caps and the ground faults did not trip. You'd think that they are grounded together at the box coming into the house - they would be the same thoughout, but that is not the case.

Plus if there is a transformer in the set - the potential of the chassis "ground" and the actual ground in the building can be very different. This floating potential is under normal conditions not hazardous, there would have to be something wrong with the transformer for it to be a problem - but if you are holding the mike it might give you a little tingle and frequently you;d a loud hum in the speakers from just holding the mike. By having a resistor once again, this limits the tingle at the mike by setting the difference between the chassis "ground" and the ground the artist is standing on to nearly the same potential.


It would seem the caps or the resistor give some isolation while still bringing the potentials closer together in value.
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Dave Doughty
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Posted: Nov Fri 06, 2009 2:42 pm  Reply with quote

OK - Now I see it. The first three schematics I have show a 2.7 ohm resistor for R9 which was changed to 1 ohm in the fourth schematic. It doesn't make sense but it might have something to do with ground loops in certain situations.

In this case, Bob means "line ground" is the power supply DC common return (after the power transformer), not the AC line neutral or third-wire ground. The chassis, however, is connected to the AC mains third-wire ground.

In any case, I don't believe R9 has anything to do with the low frequency oscillation problem.

Bob - if you are saying that music with lots of bass causes the oscillation to start and then stay constant, I still feel the problem is one or both large filter caps in the power supply. I just repaired a Hafler amp with a similar (but not exact) problem. These amps operate nearly class B so the current demand is always changing. The amp will become unstable due to aging caps before you notice any hum due to poor filtering.

I found that Mouser has the best price for these large-value caps.

Dave
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desertbard
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Posted: Nov Fri 06, 2009 2:57 pm  Reply with quote

Right on. For some reason I could not think of the phrase "grounding loop" so I took the long winded approach to get the information across.

Joe
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tubular bob
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Posted: Nov Mon 09, 2009 12:17 pm  Reply with quote

In doing some shopping for the caps, I have found that Mallory is still making the "CGS" screw terminal type, which appears to be the OE supplier on this example. I'll just get a couple coming and see how this effects its performance.

I'll post to let you know what happens. In the meantime, I'm going to be busy trying to fix the IC-150 preamp problem I created. (see other post in this section)
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Dave Doughty
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Posted: Nov Mon 09, 2009 1:51 pm  Reply with quote

I noticed the screw terminal type caps are very expensive. For my Hafler, I used the kind made for PC board mounting and soldered lugs to the terminals so I could then use the original connections. The new caps were considerably smaller than the old ones. I removed the original mounting brackets and used industrial Velcro to mount them. The price of the new caps was about $8 each.

Please don't blame me if the caps are NOT the problem. Further troubleshooting with an oscilloscope or ESR meter would be needed to confirm bad caps are the cause.

Dave
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tubular bob
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Posted: Nov Sat 14, 2009 2:20 am  Reply with quote

I received the $50.00 caps today from Crown and got them installed. I believe I've helped the oscillation/distortion problem but until I get my IC-150 preamp fixed, I'll have to wait to see just how much I've helped it. ther still seems to be some distortion, but it's really hard to tell without a preamp.
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