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Found. A new/old Hammarlund. It's now working great. Goto page Previous  1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9  Next
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badrestorer
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Joined: 17 Mar 2008
Posts: 2362
Location: Arkansas

Posted: Oct Thu 29, 2009 12:43 am  Reply with quote

Ed,
Later tonight there will be a lot of switch cleaning. But before leaving for work I did get to trace a 455kc signal I sent through it. Things were fine until it entered the 3rd IF tube (6SS7). It never came out on the plate. That was as far as I got. After the switch cleaning I'll also make a few voltage checks on that tube. If needed, I have (I think) a 6SK7 that can be used a temporary sub.
Thanks for the info on that wire.
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John

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Burnt Fingers
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Joined: 20 Oct 2007
Posts: 5173
Location: New Hampshire

Posted: Oct Thu 29, 2009 1:43 am  Reply with quote

If that tube is cold and you dont have the spare take the one out of the RF stage. You will at least have noise from the mixer back to check operation, do IF and oscillator alignments.

Carl
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Kent Kershaw
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Joined: 01 Jan 1970
Posts: 734
Location: Charlotte,NC

Posted: Oct Thu 29, 2009 2:25 am  Reply with quote

In case you need it, the factory manual is here: http://bama.edebris.com/manuals/hammarlu/ I didn't see if it was in a previous post.
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badrestorer
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Location: Arkansas

Posted: Oct Thu 29, 2009 2:40 am  Reply with quote

Carl,
Using the RF tube was on my mind, if I don't have the 6SK7, but I think I do have one. The apparently bad 6SS7 tube does heat up.
You know...I think somewhere along the line these tubes were checked with a tube tester and the results scratched on the tops. One or two have 76. Another has 74. I'm at work right now and can't remember which tube has what number scratched on its top.
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John

They don't know the power of the radio side.
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w3jn
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Joined: 01 Jan 1970
Posts: 1381
Location: Athens, Greece

Posted: Oct Thu 29, 2009 4:33 am  Reply with quote

Check plate and screen voltage of that 3rd IF.

You say "everything went fine until you got to the third IF tube" - does that mean you started at the detector with the 455 KHZ signal? Or you injected a 455 at the mixer and used a scope to trace it forward?
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badrestorer
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Location: Arkansas

Posted: Oct Thu 29, 2009 3:09 pm  Reply with quote

It looks like I have more problems than I thought. The B+ voltage is very low. It's enough to allow a sig. gen. signal to be heard (injecting it at the 6K8 grid cap), but not enough to make things totally operational. Either the rectifier tube is bad or something has been wired wrong. Someone has done a little messing around with the rectifier socket. I'll know more in a day or two. Not to worry...I'll figure it out. Rolling Eyes
But right now I'm working on two radios and need to get back to the first one for a while.
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John

They don't know the power of the radio side.
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gvel
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Joined: 01 Jan 1970
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Location: Howell, Mi

Posted: Nov Sat 07, 2009 4:26 pm  Reply with quote

Thought I'd get this back up top. Laughing
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WD8PHW
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badrestorer
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Location: Arkansas

Posted: Nov Sat 07, 2009 6:15 pm  Reply with quote

Here's the findings, folks (voltages taken pin to ground):
Definite power supply problem. Very low B+. Voltage readings at the rectifier:
Pin# 4...300vac
Pin# 6...298vac

Pin#2...starts out at 22vdc, then slowly lowers to 13vdc as the tube heats up.
Pin# 8...same as pin#2.

What's the verdict? Tube or transformer? I do get continuity across pins 2 & 8 with the rectifier removed. I also get continuity on those tube pins.
I'll take a swag...the tube is bonkers.

http://www.nostalgiaair.org/Pa ... 008997.pdf

http://www.nostalgiaair.org/tubes/5u4g.htm
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John

They don't know the power of the radio side.
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Dave Doughty
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Joined: 01 Jan 1970
Posts: 6974
Location: Utica, NY 13502 (USA)

Posted: Nov Sat 07, 2009 6:42 pm  Reply with quote

If the tube were good, the plates would be glowing red-hot because of a short somewhere. If the filaments light and the plates aren't glowing, I think the tube is bad.

Dave
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gvel
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Posted: Nov Sat 07, 2009 6:54 pm  Reply with quote

It seems that your power transformer is fine, John.

I'm betting on the Rectifier Tube, since you've change the electrolytics.
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WD8PHW
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Curt Reed
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Posted: Nov Sat 07, 2009 7:02 pm  Reply with quote

I would start all over and take resistance readings to the B- starting at the rectifier filament after the filter capacitors have been discharged. I would suspect that something in the order of 10 K ohms or greater should be the reading. If you are showing something in the order of a few hundred ohms or less, it means you have a short in the B+ line to ground somewhere.

Also make sure the center tap connection of the power transformer high voltage winding is connected to the B-. It may run thru a switch to put the set in standby, so make sure that is all working like it should.

Then if all resistance readings are in the ball park, it is time to do voltage checks with the set turned on and in the receive mode. I can not begin to guess the times I have run into difficulties either with others or even myself when the receive/standby switch got thrown to standby without knowing about it.
Curt
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gvel
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Posted: Nov Sat 07, 2009 7:15 pm  Reply with quote

While in stand-by, shouldn't he still see HV, at the filaments of the rectifier?
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WD8PHW


Last edited by gvel on Nov Sun 08, 2009 8:20 pm
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Curt Reed
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Posted: Nov Sat 07, 2009 7:17 pm  Reply with quote

If the standby switch opens the center tap of the transformer, all B+ is killed when the switch is open. There is no return for the current flow when it is open.
Curt
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Dave Doughty
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Posted: Nov Sat 07, 2009 7:40 pm  Reply with quote

Standby switch doesn't open the CT of the power transformer in this case. Some circuits stay powered during standby.

I agree that resistance measurements should be taken before a new tube is tried.

Dave
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badrestorer
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Posted: Nov Sat 07, 2009 7:47 pm  Reply with quote

The latest:

1. Both rectifier filaments light up and the plates do not glow.

2. Both filament pins, 2 & 8, to chassis ground read 62K each.

3. Receive/send switch is in the receive mode.

4. Pins 4 & 6 readings (300/298 vac) are center tap to ground. Across the pins reads 598vac.

Did I forget anything?
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John

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Dave Doughty
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Posted: Nov Sat 07, 2009 7:56 pm  Reply with quote

Do you have another tube to try? I say go for it!

Dave
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badrestorer
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Posted: Nov Sat 07, 2009 8:03 pm  Reply with quote

Dave Doughty wrote:
Do you have another tube to try? I say go for it!

Dave


I've accumulated a small tube stash, but none for this puppy. Time to bug Genoo again.
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John

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Curt Reed
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Posted: Nov Sat 07, 2009 9:31 pm  Reply with quote

OK, you have AC voltage to the plates of the rectifier tube. How much DC do you have coming off the filaments of the rectifier tube?
Curt
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gvel
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Posted: Nov Sat 07, 2009 10:12 pm  Reply with quote

Curt...he has 23 V at start-up and it drops to 13V after warm-up.
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WD8PHW
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badrestorer
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Posted: Nov Sat 07, 2009 11:16 pm  Reply with quote

Curt,
I decided to let things really warm up and the filament voltages dropped another volt, to 12vdc. I'll play around with it a little longer. Maybe I'll find a bad apple or something will change. If so, I'll get back to y'all.
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John

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