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 Post subject: RCA 100-A Speaker Case
PostPosted: Jun Fri 26, 2009 12:57 am 
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Getting ready to restore a RCA 100A speaker. Doesn't seem to have any water damage, no rust and the fiberboard bottom is in good condition. But the cabinet has some sort of corrosion on it, you can see in the below photo.

Image

I am considering repainting but I'd rather find a way to clean up the case and preserve the original finish/patina if it is still there.

If my only option ends up a repainting, I recall some time ago there was a discussion on here about the correct color of paint to use. Anyone remember this?



Thanks for any and all help!

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Jun Fri 26, 2009 1:19 am 
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Location: Modesto Ca
Jeremy,

I recently repainted a 100A. I first tried to clean it up but didn't have any luck bring it back to the condition I would have been happy with so I decided to paint it.

To find the right color, I tried tested several readily available aerosols from the local hardware stores and automotive parts stores and was not satisfied with the match to the original color. It was recommended to me by someone who does a lot of these restorations to use a General Motors Dark Chestnut Metallic from the mid 80's. I found that the GM paint code is 62. This used to be readily available but is now only available as a custom mix so I had a local automotive paint retailer mix this for me in an aerosol. The color match was excellent and matched the over spray inside the speaker case very well. The paint went on easily and covered very well.

I've read in other threads that some have experienced the pot metal case out gassing after it is painted causing small irregularities or bubbles in the finish. I did this several months ago and have not experienced any of this.

My 100A did not have the gold detail around the speaker opening that appears on your case. I was told that the speaker was sold both ways so I did not worry about that. There are other threads that describe the paint to use for this. Testor Gold I think is one option.

I hope this helps,
Richard


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Jun Fri 26, 2009 8:45 am 
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Did you lacquer the metallic finish afterwards? I always wonder if you should with these type cans. I know cars were originally finsihed like that.

thanks Gary


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Jun Fri 26, 2009 3:59 pm 
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Gary, no I didn't apply anything over the paint. The paint finish looks great and has the right sheen so I didn't think it needed anything else.

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Richard


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Jun Mon 29, 2009 2:44 pm 
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Not to try to hijack this thread, but how hard is it to repair/find a replacement piece of trim for around the speaker opening? I know where about a half dozen or more of these speakers are, and I would like to get a couple of them, now that I've learned what color to paint them.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Jun Mon 29, 2009 5:20 pm 
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Welcome to the thread. I dont know what you mean by the "piece of trim for around the speaker opening" ?

If you mean the decorative flowers they are part of the casting. The cloth is available from Antique Radio Grill Cloth.

Gary


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PostPosted: Jun Mon 29, 2009 7:06 pm 
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Hmm. Ok then. A couple of the ones I saw had cracks in that area. Not looking at them closely, I thought that it was a piece of trim. I may still get some of them anyway. Thanks for the info.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Jun Tue 30, 2009 1:56 am 
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Richard,

Thank you for the tip. I'll call around tomorrow and see if I can find some Dark Chestnut paint. If you don't mind me asking, how much did you pay for a can? I found an image of that color online and it looks pretty good to me.

I'll try to gold paint too and see how it turns out.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Jun Tue 30, 2009 4:38 am 
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Jeremy,

Make sure the Dark Chestnut paint is metallic. Also be aware there are many Dark Chestnut Metallic paints available that significantly differ in color. I paid less than $20 for an aerosol custom mixed for GM paint code 62.

There is another thread that recommends applying the gold paint with an eraser which sounds like a great idea.

Glad I could help,
Richard


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Jun Tue 30, 2009 5:05 am 
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This could possibly be the prior thread that you are refering to:

http://antiqueradios.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=108473&highlight=duplicolor

The paint mentioned in the thread is Duplicolor "Dark Bronze Mist"

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Jun Tue 30, 2009 8:53 am 
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Andy you will have no doubt seen the other thread on speaker fixings for the 100A. Its these that make the cracks in the pot metal. The screws go throught it into a mild steel speaker surround ring that doesn't move. How much the pot metal warps is quite surprising. As an example the base on the rear side is concave by about 1/8" whilst the front is dead flat.

Gary


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Jul Mon 20, 2009 2:18 am 
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Well, here is how my speaker turned out.

Image

Image

The paint was in much better shape than I originally thought. After a good cleaning, I just coated it with some gloss lacquer and it looks great. Thanks to those who posted some good information such as what color of paint to use if I ever do have to repaint one of these.

Here is a page briefly describing what all I did to my speaker. http://radiorestorer.com./rca100aspeaker.html

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Jul Mon 20, 2009 7:43 am 
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I'm surprised you didn't mention warping and having to do something about it to place the speaker screws back?

As an example, mine is so warped that if one body side hole lines up with the tapped hole, in the steel fixing ring, then the other opposite cannot be seen. Easier to say that the holes are out of line by half of the diameter of the threaded hole.

It does not appear to be just lateral movement but the front belling outwards as well.

To get the screws in a previous bodger had angled them and used force stipping most of the thread.

Needless to say I have modified the design to allow new screws to go back with no stress and to allow for movement in the future.

Still in the paint shop! When I assemble I will post pics of how I did it.

Gary


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Jul Mon 20, 2009 1:14 pm 
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Location: Battle Creek, Mi
The color is simply Bronze with gold leave. Has anyone had any luck taking the speaker cloth clamp apart? I haven't tried with much effort yet but it sure looks like mine isn't gonna come apart with any ease.

gonna start this when the weather gets above freezing here in perma-frost michigan.

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Image

david


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Jul Mon 20, 2009 4:18 pm 
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Hi David

I actually got my rings apart, after cutting out the cloth, using a small toffee hammer. Support the outer ring and there is enough of the inner showing that you can gently hammer it out.

Yours looks in bad shape... guess you could use a simple cardboard baffle for the rear, unless you have the rings some place else?

I cleaned mine up using just using a detail sander, dry wet&dry and abrasive pads. I didn't want to use any stripper that required washing off with water. Cleaned it with De Nat Alcohol. Filled flakes, after grinding out, with Araldite Steel (same as JB Weld). Now finish going on after primer applied two weeks ago. Done like this I have no gas blow holes that some have talked about.

Gary


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Jul Mon 20, 2009 10:58 pm 
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Mine has no warping at all. I did see another speaker of this same model at the Indy hamfest a few weeks ago that was badly warped and cracked.

One problem I had, a screw broke off in the speaker frame while disassembling. The threads were rusty on that one, an easy fix though. My grille cloth came out fo the rings pretty easy.

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