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 Post subject: Stromberg-Carlson RP-721 console
PostPosted: Mar Sun 27, 2011 2:04 pm 
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Location: Downers Grove Illinois
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Hey guys, I scored my first console yesterday. The price was right - Free! The size was right - Small! I live in a 1300 sq. ft. ranch without a basement. Maybe this should be called a consolette, it's about 39" long, 16" deep, and 26" high with the 4" legs. I don't think it weighs more than about 60 pounds, I was able to lift and carry it by myself. There are boomboxes that are probably bigger and heavier than this. :lol:

I got it home and plugged it into the dimbulb after I replaced the frayed power cord, and no hum. I found the Sams for it on Tom Bavis' website, http://www.audiophool.cbj.net/MadeInRoch.html, thanks, Tom. It has the smaller 5 tube amp, 6 tube tuner and a 4 speed changer.

The FM worked for about 30 seconds until I tried to change stations and the dial cord broke. The input selector has 6 positions, phono, FM, FM AFC, AM FM (weird), AM, and Multiplex (what's that, guess, I'll find out). The tuner has separate knobs and dial pointers for AM and FM.

The changer has the S-C label on it, maybe it's a Garrard or VoM?(Edit: just realized it's a Glazer-Steers.)
It's really gummed up, stuck on 33 rpm, and the on position, but the cartridge is good. The speed was wobbly, but it sounded pretty good, really nice bass for something so small. I know it needs new caps on the crossovers, no treble response. It has 6 x 9's and 3 x 5's.

I guess you can tell that I really like this thing. :D Kind of like a first date, I'm looking forward to spending some time cleaning it up and getting it back into shape. I guess I better start with the electrolytics.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mar Sun 27, 2011 3:28 pm 
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Joined: Jan Sun 24, 2010 7:59 am
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Location: Pro Tech, Philadelphia Pa.
The reason for the seperate AM & FM pointers and the selector AM-AM position:
Back in the infancy of Stereo FM, they broadcast one channel of stereo/binaural on the AM band, and the other channel on the FM band...... thus, 2-channel sound.

The Multiplex setting was for actual stereo FM broadcasts, and kicks in a stereo multiplex circuit (sometimes an option)

Best to re-cap that console before running it anymore.
And yeah, overhaul that G.S. changer.

_________________
"Accept the fact that some days you are the pigeon, and some days you are the statue."


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mar Mon 28, 2011 12:47 am 
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Location: Boston, MA USA
RepairTech wrote:
The reason for the seperate AM & FM pointers and the selector AM-AM position:
Back in the infancy of Stereo FM, they broadcast one channel of stereo/binaural on the AM band, and the other channel on the FM band...... thus, 2-channel sound.

I remember my dad trying that out. Back in the day many stations had both AM and FM, including WGMS, "Washington's Good Music Station." He had the big hi-fi speaker on the left and set up the little 4-tube Silvertone AM from the kitchen for the right channel. The announcer emphasized the his voice should sound like it was coming from the middle of the room, and for the longest time I thought that was what stereo was. As you can imagine, with that set-up the stereo demonstration was less than impressive.

-David


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Apr Fri 01, 2011 3:26 am 
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Location: Downers Grove Illinois
Okay, so I'm ready to order my electrolytics from wjoe.

One of them is a 50/25, should I order a 47/25 or a 50/160?

Can I sub a 20/450 for a 15/350?

Is 33/35 okay to substitute for a 25/25?

Also calls for a 50/200, is a 47/250 okay, or should I get the 50/450?

The tuner needs (2) 40/200's and a 40/150. wjoe has 40/450's and 40/160's, so (2) 40/450's and a 40/160?

I know this is probably duh to a lot of you guys, but bear with me, I'm still new to this.

Thanks,John


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Apr Fri 01, 2011 3:31 am 
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Location: Little Rock, Arkansas
Very nice console, particularly since it's blonde!!!!!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Apr Fri 01, 2011 3:47 am 
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moses_007 wrote:
Very nice console, particularly since it's blonde!!!!!


Thanks, I'm pretty pleased with it. Like I said, the price was right! It really seems to be of a better quality than my first project. It's all in pieces right now, but I was impressed with the sound when I heard it. The person I got it from said she hadn't played it for years until recently. It is pretty much what I've been looking for and I plan on giving it a good home, until something better catches my eye. :wink: It has some issues and I'm sure, I'll be asking for help, but I'll tackle one thing at a time. John


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Apr Fri 01, 2011 4:03 am 
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Location: Pro Tech, Philadelphia Pa.
knhoj59 wrote:
Okay, so I'm ready to order my electrolytics from wjoe.

One of them is a 50/25, should I order a 47/25 or a 50/160?

Can I sub a 20/450 for a 15/350?

Is 33/35 okay to substitute for a 25/25?

Also calls for a 50/200, is a 47/250 okay, or should I get the 50/450?

The tuner needs (2) 40/200's and a 40/150. wjoe has 40/450's and 40/160's, so (2) 40/450's and a 40/160?

I know this is probably duh to a lot of you guys, but bear with me, I'm still new to this.

Thanks,John


Please, whenever I read about the triviality of power supply electrolytic-comparison-values, my nerves start to strain.

As a professional repair tech, and to ALL you tinkerers, please, 2 or 3 stinking microfarads of difference one way or the other is not a life-threatening issue.
Voltage, yes, higher is ok.

_________________
"Accept the fact that some days you are the pigeon, and some days you are the statue."


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Apr Fri 01, 2011 4:28 am 
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Joined: Dec Sun 05, 2010 9:20 pm
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Location: Downers Grove Illinois
RepairTech wrote:
knhoj59 wrote:
Okay, so I'm ready to order my electrolytics from wjoe.

One of them is a 50/25, should I order a 47/25 or a 50/160?

Can I sub a 20/450 for a 15/350?

Is 33/35 okay to substitute for a 25/25?

Also calls for a 50/200, is a 47/250 okay, or should I get the 50/450?

The tuner needs (2) 40/200's and a 40/150. wjoe has 40/450's and 40/160's, so (2) 40/450's and a 40/160?

I know this is probably duh to a lot of you guys, but bear with me, I'm still new to this.

Thanks,John


Please, whenever I read about the triviality of power supply electrolytic-comparison-values, my nerves start to strain.

As a professional repair tech, and to ALL you tinkerers, please, 2 or 3 stinking microfarads of difference one way or the other is not a life-threatening issue.
Voltage, yes, higher is ok.


Wow, good answer, not what I was expecting, but good answer. :lol: Thanks


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Apr Fri 01, 2011 4:48 am 
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Location: Little Rock, Arkansas
To keep it simple, order 450 volt electrolytics for anything originally 250 volts or higher; and 160 volt electrolytics for everything else. Works like a charm.

Modern day electrolytics are somewhat as follows:

33mfd replaces 35 mfd.

22mfd replaces 20 mfd.

47mfd. replaces 50 mfd.

100mfd. replaces 80 mfd.

4.7mfd. replaces 5 mfd.

ETC, ETC.....


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Apr Fri 01, 2011 11:37 am 
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Joined: Dec Sun 05, 2010 9:20 pm
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Location: Downers Grove Illinois
Thanks moses_007. I won't make the mistake of asking that question again. I wonder if my mechanic (my brother-in-law) gets perturbed when I do a brake job on my car. I'm just trying to save a little money, learn something, and have some fun doing something myself. Don't see nothing wrong with that!


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