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 Post subject: Philmore
PostPosted: Aug Thu 03, 2006 5:03 am 
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Joined: Jan Thu 01, 1970 1:00 am
Posts: 6331
Location: Portland Oregon
It looks like it may have been a kit radio and it uses a 50L6, a 50Y6 and the third one I need to find out. A schematic would also be helpful if someone knows of a source. The dial is graduated from 1 to 100 and a switch that reads BC and SW, a volume control and one marked sensitivity. Image Image


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Aug Thu 03, 2006 5:15 am 
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Joined: Jan Thu 01, 1970 1:00 am
Posts: 11100
Location: Vieques, PR, USA
odds are its a 12xx-something. Can you trace out the leads from the unknown socket to the coil and tuning cap and say which pin numbers those components lead to?

There might be a cap running from pin 5 of the 50L6 to 'some pin' on the unknown tube. Which pin might that be?

That would provide some insight as to which 12xxx might have been used.

If it were my design I'd have gone for a 12SN7 - or similar dual stage toob.

-Bill


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Aug Thu 03, 2006 2:10 pm 
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Joined: Jan Thu 01, 1970 1:00 am
Posts: 4434
Location: St. Louis, MO, USA
Wow, what a blast from the past! I built one just like it when I was a kid. I can't swear it was the exact same model but it sure looks like it from what my memory dredges up, but that was almost 50 years ago. Bought it mail-order from Olson Electronics.

Sorry, I just can't remember what the third tube was. I'm pretty sure it was just a single stage though, but that's not gospel. I don't remember the rectifier being a 50Y6 either. I would have guessed 35Z5, but I suppose the 50Y6 makes sense because of the filament voltage.

One thing I do remember is having a lot of trouble with a large sand-coated resistor. It got smoking hot really quick. It even started glowing. I noticed a crack in it so I bought another from the local TV store but it got just as hot. I think I finally doubled or tripled up on the wattage rating they called for.

Best bet is probably to draw out a schematic as best you can. It shouldn't be too hard. It's just a simple regen circuit with a minimum of parts. Then the missing tube type could be infered. Post the drawing here and I'm sure it will be identified.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Aug Thu 03, 2006 2:45 pm 
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Joined: Jan Thu 01, 1970 1:00 am
Posts: 31563
Location: Livermore, CA
Hi Ed

If the 3rd tube is a dual triode might be 12SL7GT. Can't be 12SN7GT as this one has a 300 ma filament. Other tubes which are wired in series have 150 ma filaments.

If a single section tube might be 12SJ7? Checking the circuit will help identify the tube used.

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Norm


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Aug Thu 03, 2006 3:01 pm 
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Joined: Jan Thu 01, 1970 1:00 am
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Location: Detroit, MI USA
Hi Ed,

It looks like there was more than one version of the kit.

The one shown in the 1958 Allied catalog is model 7001C, which uses 50L6, 35Z5, and 12SJ7 tubes. The kit sold for $12.94 without the tubes.

I suspect if you do some research, there would have also been a 7001A and B version, one of which will be what you have there. Doing a Google search shows there was also a 7001-CR which used 12AU6, 50C5, and 35W4, apparently there was also a Philmore crystal radio kit with the 7001 series of model numbers to add to the confusion.

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Dennis

Experience is what you gain when the results aren't what you were expecting.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Aug Thu 03, 2006 7:26 pm 
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Joined: Jan Thu 01, 1970 1:00 am
Posts: 6331
Location: Portland Oregon
The 50Y6 didn't seem right to me but that is what someone had pencled in on the chassis as well as the 50L6. As to the resistor, it is cracked and a lot of the sand is missing.
Ed


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Aug Thu 03, 2006 7:36 pm 
Moderator

Joined: Jan Thu 01, 1970 1:00 am
Posts: 31563
Location: Livermore, CA
Hi Ed

50Y6 is reasonable as you only have 3 tubes and filament voltage should add up to the AC line. In this radio 112 volts.

If a 35Z5 is used an extra resistor is needed in series with filaments.

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Norm


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Aug Thu 03, 2006 8:32 pm 
Member

Joined: Jan Thu 01, 1970 1:00 am
Posts: 4434
Location: St. Louis, MO, USA
True, but I don't the Philmore folks were being entirely reasonable. The more I think on it, the 50L6, 35Z5, and 12SJ7 combination really sounds familiar, even though an extra heater resistor was required. The 50Y6 was a lot less common and probably quite a bit more expensive than the humble 35Z5.

Of course there could have been variations on the radio, or it could have been modified by the owner.

That sand-coated resistor was, I believe, given as 1,000 ohms at 10 watts on the schematic. Geez it's hard to remember! But the resistor itself just had "7.5" printed on it. I think it was a bleeder resistor from B+ to ground. If B+ were 100v, lets say, that would be 10 watts dissipation. If they slipped me a 7.5 watt resistor, then it's no wonder it got hot! I think I wound up using a 25 watt hollow vitreous enamel type.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Aug Fri 04, 2006 3:22 am 
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Joined: Jan Thu 01, 1970 1:00 am
Posts: 6331
Location: Portland Oregon
Pretty good memory guys, BTW it was 1000 ohms on the sand resistor
Image


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Aug Fri 04, 2006 7:49 am 
Member

Joined: Jan Thu 01, 1970 1:00 am
Posts: 4434
Location: St. Louis, MO, USA
It looks like 50Y6 is correct for this setup. There's no resistor in series with the filament string. The 1,000 ohm resistor is part of the filter pi network, not as a bleeder. That makes more sense than what my memory was telling me.

Are you going to try to get it working?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Aug Fri 04, 2006 2:23 pm 
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Joined: Jan Thu 01, 1970 1:00 am
Posts: 21710
Location: Detroit, MI USA
Hi Ed,

Look carefully at how many wires are coming out of the line cord where it enters the chassis. This cord looks very much like it could be a curtain burner resistor cord. If there are 3 wires, it's a resistor cord. I can't tell for certain from the photo, but there appears to be a greenish/gray colored wire going to pin 7 of the tube socket, a black one on pin 5, and a red one to the power switch on the rear of the control.

Plate and cathode connections on one section of a 50Y6 are in the same places as those on a 35Z5. If there's nothing connected to pins 3 and 4 of the socket, either tube would work without blowing anything up, other than the obvious difference in heater voltages. You never know what someone in the past could have done, and it's still possible the set is supposed to have a 35Z5 in it and is just marked wrong. Before plugging in any tubes let's get this figured out.

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Dennis

Experience is what you gain when the results aren't what you were expecting.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Aug Tue 03, 2010 7:27 pm 
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Joined: Aug Tue 03, 2010 6:57 pm
Posts: 3
Location: Dallas, TX
Back in the late sixties I received a very similar three-tube 2-band BC/SW radio kit from Radio Shack as a Christmas gift from my parents.

I built it and used it for most of my teenage years but it has been neglected in a box in the garage for the last 35+ years. I’d like to get it back in working order but I don’t have any of the original documentation.

I found a description in an old 1968 Radio Shack catalog. The catalog copy says it is a “A professional radio set! Receives both AM (550-1650 KC) and shortwave (3-13 MC) bands. Provides an excellent opportunity to learn radio fundamentals by building your own receiver! Pictorials, instructions, schematics. PM speaker.”

The markings on the front say Philmore Model 7001-CR. It takes three tubes; a 12AU6, a 35W4, and a 50C5. I have the 35W4 and 12AU6 but I’m missing the 50C5. And I don’t know which sockets they go in.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Aug Tue 03, 2010 8:26 pm 
Silent Key

Joined: Jan Thu 01, 1970 1:00 am
Posts: 34328
Location: Sandpoint, IDAHO 83864
The set pictured in the old photos uses octal tubes. The tubes you mention are seven pin miniature tubes. So there was probably an early and a late version of this set.
Curt

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Curt, N7AH
(Connoisseur of the cold 807) CW forever!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Aug Tue 03, 2010 8:32 pm 
New Member

Joined: Aug Tue 03, 2010 6:57 pm
Posts: 3
Location: Dallas, TX
Hi Curt, Thanks for the quick reply. Can you fix my post so that the pictures are visible? I'm not an experienced poster to forums and I obviously failed to insert the images properly. They are in the TEMPORARY gallery. Even better, could you create a new gallery for the Philmore Model 7001-CR and move the pictures there? Thanks.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Aug Tue 03, 2010 8:34 pm 
Silent Key

Joined: Jan Thu 01, 1970 1:00 am
Posts: 34328
Location: Sandpoint, IDAHO 83864
I don't know a thing about posting photos here. I have never done it. I am sure someone will jump in here and do it for you.
Curt

_________________
Curt, N7AH
(Connoisseur of the cold 807) CW forever!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Aug Tue 03, 2010 8:39 pm 
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Joined: Jan Thu 01, 1970 1:00 am
Posts: 6727
Location: Minneapolis, MN USA
Image
Image
Image
Image
Image


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Aug Tue 03, 2010 8:49 pm 
New Member

Joined: Aug Tue 03, 2010 6:57 pm
Posts: 3
Location: Dallas, TX
Thanks Dale for fixing the pictures. Hopefully someone else built this radio and can help with schematics, docs, etc. I have scoured the internet and have come up blank. I have found a few references to a Philmore 7001 Super Radio Crystal Set but it is a completely different radio based on the pictures and description.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Aug Tue 03, 2010 10:57 pm 
Member

Joined: Jan Thu 01, 1970 1:00 am
Posts: 895
Location: East Brunswick NJ,USA
Jadio,
It should be easy to get this thing going without documentation.A little study should tell us which tube goes where. It might need new electrolytics. Probably little else. Are those screws on the tube sockets yellow? If so, that is CADMIUM. Do not breath the dust. Bad stuff from cadmium plating. If you are not up to the repairs I will do it for the cost of parts and return shipping.
Marty


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Aug Wed 04, 2010 1:36 pm 
Member

Joined: Jan Thu 01, 1970 1:00 am
Posts: 895
Location: East Brunswick NJ,USA
Jadio,
The 35W4 is in the rear where the power cord enters. The 50C5 goes in front where the red and blue wires connect from the audio transformer on top of the chassis. The 12AU6 Is the remaining tube near the coil.
Marty


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 Post subject: Philmore 7001-CR
PostPosted: Mar Sat 12, 2011 7:54 pm 
New Member

Joined: Mar Sat 12, 2011 7:49 pm
Posts: 2
I just picked up a Philmore 7001-CR that someone has removed the coil on the underside of the chasis. Does anybody know where I can find a schematic or coil for the set? I would like to make it operational again.


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