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 Post subject: AK-60 console questions
PostPosted: Jul Sun 20, 2014 2:14 pm 
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I've never worked on one of these, but I've had a request to do a restoration. Are there any weak points that I should be aware of? I've been through the bad power transformer routine on several cathedrals, and I assume this is a weak point in this model as well?

I've been a lot more requests for restorations in the past three weeks that I have had in three years, and I don't advertise except on RA.

Pete

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 Post subject: Re: AK-60 console questions
PostPosted: Jul Sun 20, 2014 2:25 pm 
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Peter Bertini wrote:
I've never worked on one of these, but I've had a request to do a restoration. Are there any weak points that I should be aware of? I've been through the bad power transformer routine on several cathedrals, and I assume this is a weak point in this model as well?

I've been a lot more requests for restorations in the past three weeks that I have had in three years, and I don't advertise except on RA.

Pete


Somewhat the same lately here also Pete. And doing my best to send them elsewhere as we want less
work rather than more work. The model AK-60 for sure don't attempt to run it on full line voltage. Hope the transformer in it is still good. Somewhat of a pita do deal with the cap block parts replacement.
John k9uwa

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 Post subject: Re: AK-60 console questions
PostPosted: Jul Sun 20, 2014 4:41 pm 
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Location: Maryland 20709, USA
Hi Pete,

There are actually three versions of the 60, identified as "early", "late", and "3rd". Ignore any references to the 3rd variant.
It's a completely different radio, actually the first of the Model 70 series.

The Model 60 is the same as a late Model 55 with an additional RF stage, so the various threads here discussing the 55 are applicable in almost all cases.

The filter caps will probably need to be replaced. They're in a can within a can, so replacements can be put in place many different ways without affecting the outward appearance of the set. Connections all go to a header on the bottom.

Two possible issues under the chassis:
1) Be careful when handling the set. There are a few wirewound resistors on fibre boards, bolted to the chassis. These boards are very fragile. If you poke one it will likely break, spilling the wire all over the place.
2) The bypass capacitors are in three "sardine cans" bolted to the chassis. You can unbolt them, turn them over and unsolder the base plate. Replace the individual caps and tack-solder the plate back on.

Here's a modern schematic for the set, with separate pages for early and late versions:
http://www.atwaterkent.info/TechData/Dr ... 003sch.pdf

The individual components are discussed and illustrated in the Electrical Values Index:
http://www.atwaterkent.info/TechData/ak ... Index.html

The best vintage schematics (with component values, unlike the AK drawings) are in Rider III:
http://www.atwaterkent.info/TechData/ak ... Index.html
Rider III also contains alignment instructions and some other info.

All of the AK factory service data is accessible via this index page:
http://www.atwaterkent.info/TechData/ak ... ex.html#60

Note that Kent made circuit changes individually, not all at once, so it's quite common to find radios that are either early or late based on the serial number, but with some components or circuits from the other variant.

- Leigh

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 Post subject: Re: AK-60 console questions
PostPosted: Jul Mon 21, 2014 4:51 am 
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Joined: Jan Thu 01, 1970 1:00 am
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Location: 253 Blanche St. Plymouth, MI USA
The 55 and 60 AK's are sets I have had a lot of experience with years ago but have not worked on any for customers in a while.

ITs one of the few sets I do a minimal "repair" to and they seem to run fine. Most of those bathtub caps are very low voltage bypass caps that can be left alone. Bypass the HV ones with fresh caps, under the chassis. Do the AC line cap for sure.
I leave the original paper filter caps in, but fuse the set 1 A on the input and 175ma on the B+ line.
I like to open the audio can and cut the "quality condensor" out of the circuit. This can be done last when the set is playing and you just snip a wire that is coming out of the tar... if it goes dead or weaker, resolder that one and try another. If you get the right one, the treble improves and its a little louder.
Also I change the audio coupling cap, and use a .03 value one instead of the .07 original. Again, to brighten it up a little.
Mark Oppat
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