Forums :: Resources :: Features :: Photo Gallery :: Vintage Radio Shows :: Archives
Support This Site: Contributors :: Advertise


It is currently Dec Thu 12, 2019 5:21 pm


All times are UTC [ DST ]





Post New Topic Post Reply  [ 312 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1 ... 12, 13, 14, 15, 16  Next
Author Message
 Post subject: Re: 1956 Admiral Console - Some general technical questions
PostPosted: Oct Thu 17, 2019 3:56 pm 
Member

Joined: Sep Thu 20, 2018 8:53 pm
Posts: 109
I did get the scope out last night briefly. I'm still a very novice user with it but verified through a signal generator that it is working very well. I then tested several points on the Admiral to compare to the schematic but not the M7 area yet. I was able to get a matching pattern on pin 9 of V7 however any contact with pin 7 or 8 has no output of any kind and I noticed this a lot even at times trying pin 9, am thinking it could be user error yet. The solid default raster on scope instantly disappears when contact with pin 7 is made and no matter what setting I can never find any signal on it until I remove the probe from contact again. Should the ground of the scope test lead always be mounted to chassis when checking readout?

Also touch point W8 by M7 states in schematic "Taken with pin 3 of vert. Mult. Tube V7B shorted to ground. And height control R6 set at center of rotation. Do I remove the tube for this test and then short pin 3 using the ground from the scope lead or a separate grounded wire?

I'll also review my own M7 remake to ensure no connection flaws and could try that again. But will get more with scope tonight. Will also review volume control and grounding situation.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: 1956 Admiral Console - Some general technical questions
PostPosted: Oct Thu 17, 2019 5:38 pm 
Member

Joined: May Thu 14, 2015 4:15 pm
Posts: 1845
Location: Dallas, TX
Yes, the probe ground should always be connected to ground in this set. In other things you look at in the future it should be either chassis ground or the common power supply return line, in this TV they are the same.
I would stick with a 10X probe. The only time you can use a 1X probe is when you need to look at a very small signal (like 10 mV) and the circuit would not be loaded down by 1 Megohm and 100 pf or so.
V6 pin 8 only has a DC voltage (about 115V) on it so there shouldn't be much to see and nothing to trigger on.
Whenever you look at a signal that has a lot of DC on it you should use the AC coupling on the channel input, otherwise the DC throws the trace too far up to see on the screen. Almost no service scopes available back when this TV was made had DC input coupling. That also meant that a scope could not measure DC voltages. Pin 7 (grid) should be easy to see, if you were getting the signal at pin 9 (plate) the signal has to be there on the grid.
Some of the important other scope setting should be, mostly in the trigger section, DC trigger coupling, Auto trigger, Trigger source Channel A. Vary the Trigger level and Slope as well as the Channel A vertical sensitivity.
With a scope you may have to change the control settings many times when you look at different types of signals. I believe you said you have a Tektronix 475, which has many bells and whistles that you will never need, so by not selecting them the operation will be simpler.

No, never remove a tube unless the instructions say so. I am not sure whether SAMS made a mistake with the instructions with W8, it doesn't make sense to me. If you ground pin 3 you stop the operation of V7B, and stopping any signal on the grid of V13 which would stop the operation of that tube. So the settings of the Vert. Hold, Height and Vert. Linearity controls would not matter. However with the Vert. Mult. disabled it may be a better way of seeing the sync signal coming in there.

_________________
Tim
It's not the Destination, It's the Journey.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: 1956 Admiral Console - Some general technical questions
PostPosted: Oct Thu 17, 2019 6:04 pm 
Member
User avatar

Joined: Nov Thu 11, 2010 6:03 pm
Posts: 968
Location: Pewaukee, WI
Some vertical multivibrator circuits take the sweep output and feed it to the same point (the grid of the first multivibrator tube) as the sync is supplied to maintain oscillation if sync is lost...the idea being that the sync triggers the vertical just a bit before the fed back pulse makes it, and if the sync is missing the feedback pulse is the fallback trigger to start scan.

I have a predicta on the bench with no vertical sync that the Sam's gives waveforms for the 1st vert grid one with and.one without the osc tube pulled...you can only detect the lack of sync by pulling the osc tube in that set otherwise the feedback from the working sweep hides it....


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: 1956 Admiral Console - Some general technical questions
PostPosted: Oct Thu 17, 2019 10:29 pm 
Member

Joined: May Thu 14, 2015 4:15 pm
Posts: 1845
Location: Dallas, TX
Yes, I think that is what's going on, a way to see the sync pulses coming in. It is just the part about adjusting the Height control that seems odd. When I come across something like this I figure either I'm not on the right track or someone else got it wrong.
Matt, by the way if you do disable the vertical sweep this way, it is a good idea to turn the brightness all the way down first. The screen will collapse to a horizontal line without the vertical sweep and it could in time burn the screen.

_________________
Tim
It's not the Destination, It's the Journey.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: 1956 Admiral Console - Some general technical questions
PostPosted: Oct Fri 18, 2019 2:43 am 
Member

Joined: Sep Thu 20, 2018 8:53 pm
Posts: 109
Quote:
Another test would be putting a short across C52 or point "D" to ground. It takes very little signal at the input of the sound amplifier for you to hear hum.


I tried this and when shorted to ground all audio including the buzz and any actual sound goes silent (equivalent to removing V10 - Amp). The volume control switch itself appears to have one grounded wire to itself. The loss of audio also occurs if I short out either wire direct from the volume control.

I'm still trying to learn how to get good signals with the oscilloscope so appreciate the help. I assume that the probe should be plugged into the main Channel 1 (Vertical) spot on the left of the 475; the right also includes "A Triggering" and "B Triggering" coaxial connector spots. I generally see a lot of random garbage noise when testing this - without any signal connected.


Attachments:
Capture.JPG
Capture.JPG [ 447.62 KiB | Viewed 441 times ]
Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: 1956 Admiral Console - Some general technical questions
PostPosted: Oct Fri 18, 2019 3:56 am 
Member

Joined: Jun Thu 25, 2015 3:21 am
Posts: 1352
since the tube before m7 has a voltage on the grid that is out of tolerance i have a feeling your problem lies there. a quick test if the problem is before m7 is to inject the correct signal into the input of m7.if your issue goes away the problem is before m7. the lead of m7 connected to the plate of the previous tube is the place to inject your signal. since this is printed circuit wiring you may not be able to do this so inject your signal at the plate of the sync phase inverter through a .02 blocking condenser. this is a condenser you put in series with the positive probe lead of your 1077 between the plate terminal and your 1077 positive probe. if your issue goes away the problem is before m7. if the problem doesnt clear it is located in m7 or after m7. signal injection is the easiest way to isolate your problem. your book on the 1077 will tell you how to set up the 1077 to do this.


since a poor ground from the case of the volume control to the chassis is suspected clip a test lead to the chassis and touch the case of the volume control with the other end of the lead. do not touch the terminals of the volume control. this will ground the case so if there is a problem with the ground the problem should clear.

troubleshooting with an oscope is a subjective test at best. it also requires you know what the wave form should look like at that point and can interpret why the wave form you are getting differs from what it should be. signal injection with the 1077 is quicker and more accurate. when you inject the correct signal to the point under test either the problem goes away or it doesnt. no guess work involved.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: 1956 Admiral Console - Some general technical questions
PostPosted: Oct Fri 18, 2019 5:04 am 
Member

Joined: Sep Thu 20, 2018 8:53 pm
Posts: 109
Vertical Hold Issue SOLVED! Looks like M7 was the offender all along - but not the part itself, rather the solder points and microscopic trace lift!

Tonight I went over my M7 remade circuit and then created a second version on a different board to definitively rule that out. I got it done and tried it but saw the same symptoms. However, when I was then putting the original M7 back, I noticed a very microscopic lift of the solder at one of the three connection points that M2 makes. I didn't even think anything of it since it still appeared to be a solid connection just slightly lifted away from the board. I reflowed new solder across that point and made sure the other two were newly adhered as well. I didn't anticipate much change but turned it on just to verify it hadn't gotten any worse.

And that's when I slightly adjusted the vertical hold and witnessed it "snap" into sync! Suddenly no more scrolling issues, adjusting brightness or tone does not alter it, navigating through dark and light scenes and fast cuts also works perfectly! No more scrolling troubles at all. :D

VIDEO OF ITS CURRENT STATE: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HcPJ_jndzcE (Note at 0:45-0:55 I transition from light to black which in the original messed up state would've completely thrown it off-track!)

This is a massive relief and really was the last lingering problem beyond the audio buzz! There are slight distortions but mostly ones that can be adjusted with more careful configuration of the brightness/contrast, vertical linearity, vertical hold, centering behind the yoke and slight adjustments to the horizontal hold. I don't believe this set offers more granular geometric corrections or horizontal width but I think once all is done it will look fantastic. There are a lot of those fine adjustment coils ("shunt peaking ... trap ... series peaking...") that I still know nothing about but hopefully can leave them as-is.

Regarding the audio buzz, I will try the new suggestions as well to help narrow it down further. It is definitely not a deal breaker as with the volume up reasonably loud it gets drawn out but I definitely think it is a malfunction since in the initial work I had done I didn't recall the sound. It is barely noticeable in the video above, however.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: 1956 Admiral Console - Some general technical questions
PostPosted: Oct Fri 18, 2019 5:43 am 
Member

Joined: May Thu 14, 2015 4:15 pm
Posts: 1845
Location: Dallas, TX
MattPilz wrote:
I tried this and when shorted to ground all audio including the buzz and any actual sound goes silent (equivalent to removing V10 - Amp). The volume control switch itself appears to have one grounded wire to itself. The loss of audio also occurs if I short out either wire direct from the volume control.

I'm still trying to learn how to get good signals with the oscilloscope so appreciate the help. I assume that the probe should be plugged into the main Channel 1 (Vertical) spot on the left of the 475; the right also includes "A Triggering" and "B Triggering" coaxial connector spots. I generally see a lot of random garbage noise when testing this - without any signal connected.

If the hum stops when you ground point "D" then this means the hum is not getting in through the power supply. Cutting off the normal sound would be expected. The hum is either being picked up in the "Ratio Detector" stage or the grid circuit of V10. You are making progress.
Yes, the input probe would be connected to the Channel 1 input connector. The slide switch below the "Volts/Div" should be set to "AC". The "Vert Mode" button for CH 1 should be pushed in. On the right side of the screen the "Horiz Display" should have the "A" button pushed in. Everything in the "B Triggering" area can be ignored, as well as the "Delay Time Position" knob. In the "A Triggering" section the "AUTO" button should be pushed in. The "Coupling" switch there can be set to DC, the "Source" switch can be set to Norm or CH 1.
The "A Trigger" knob is where you can vary the slope and level to get the triggering stable. Don't forget to adjust the 10X probe compensation, you only have to do that once unless you change the probe. One of the videos by w2aew shows how. That scope was made between 1973 and 1984 and except for the CRT is all solid state. Tektronix used very high quality parts so the scope should be reliable. One thing that can happen over time is that the switches and controls can get dirty, but they can be cleaned.
There are two main ways that someone can troubleshoot a device. In one a known good signal is connected to the input and the signal is traced, using a scope or a unit called a signal tracer, from stage to stage toward the output until a fault is found. The other approach starts at the output of the device (speaker or CRT) and injects a good signal (like the 1077) into the stages starting near the output and moving stage to stage toward the input until a fault is found.
I strongly disagree with thomas13202 about the accuracy of using a scope. The SAMS shows what the waveform should look like at various places. Also information on what the correct waveforms look like can be found in publications about TV circuits. I realize thomas13202 might of had more experience with the 1077 than with a scope. The 1077 is a older unit using mostly tubes and while B&K instruments are fine they didn't use always use top quality parts. The 1077 is service grade, while the Tek 475 is lab grade.

_________________
Tim
It's not the Destination, It's the Journey.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: 1956 Admiral Console - Some general technical questions
PostPosted: Oct Fri 18, 2019 5:58 am 
Member

Joined: May Thu 14, 2015 4:15 pm
Posts: 1845
Location: Dallas, TX
We posted at about the same time.
That's great news!
It is the details that can get you. This turned out to be what the old repair shops called a "Tough Dog".
Are you using the 8 inch CRT in the video? The geometry could be better with the correct CRT.
The sound problem seems to be what is referred to as "buzz" rather that hum. It is caused by the vertical sweep sync in the video effecting the sound detector ( ratio detector). Buzz can be made worse if the contrast is too high (video games and other digital sources) as well as the sound detector not being adjusted correctly. Some designs are better at minimizing buzz than others.

_________________
Tim
It's not the Destination, It's the Journey.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: 1956 Admiral Console - Some general technical questions
PostPosted: Oct Fri 18, 2019 6:36 am 
Member

Joined: Jun Thu 25, 2015 3:21 am
Posts: 1352
now for the buzz issue. good work


Last edited by thomas13202 on Oct Fri 18, 2019 6:42 am, edited 1 time in total.

Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: 1956 Admiral Console - Some general technical questions
PostPosted: Oct Fri 18, 2019 6:36 am 
Member

Joined: Sep Thu 20, 2018 8:53 pm
Posts: 109
Thank you again, Notimetolooz and Thomas!

The buzz is something that occurs without any signal hooked up and even without the RF Tuner connected at all. It does not vary by volume so is just a persistent buzz. I do feel like the audio was not this way initially but also can't say with certainty since I barely had tried the set before I first noticed it.

Audio Buzz: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ltcqhy2VjeE

Yes I am just using the 8" test tube currently. The new CRT is installed in the cabinet and I have previously verified that it is functional and tested great on a CRT tester, so the final shift back to the cabinet shouldn't be too complex although I wish I had taken more photos of it before removing everything in the first place.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: 1956 Admiral Console - Some general technical questions
PostPosted: Oct Fri 18, 2019 6:40 am 
Member

Joined: Jun Thu 25, 2015 3:21 am
Posts: 1352
MattPilz wrote:
Vertical Hold Issue SOLVED! Looks like M7 was the offender all along - but not the part itself, rather the solder points and microscopic trace lift!
.

great work matt. i am glad you got that fixed. one sugestion when removing a component totally remove old solder from the terminal. when reinstalling a new component use new solder to solder the component in place.

matt you have a control somewhere in the ratio detector circuit to cut down on buzz. at least zenith did. you could try to adjust your ratio detector according to the instructions in sam's. some sets no matter what you did it will buzz no matter what you do with the higher input modern signals. if it is buzzing with no signal applied maybe something isnt aligned properly. you need a signal generator marker generator and a scope for alignment work. sam's will give you instructions on the equiptment needed and where to hook it up in the alignment instructions. if memory serves i think you can get the ratio detector coil close using a vtvm to align it. there are two different types of fm detectors and one can be aligned with a vtvm the other can not. i cant recall which is which or the name of the second kind of detector.

Notimetolooz actually every tv i serviced over 20 years i used the 1075 which is an older version of the 1077 and it worked great. in that time it found the faults i needed it to find and didnt show something as faulty that wasnt faulty. look at the screen and either the problem clears or it doesnt. it is that simple. inject the signal one stage at a time if the fault goes away that stage is cleared. if the fault doesnt go away you then test that stage. quick simple and efficient.

re oscope. while i never personally used one to troubleshoot i have watched videos of people who did and i would pause the video and try to determine if the wave form was correct then listen to the answer to try to train myself on oscope use and i hate to admit i was wrong at least half the time. then again i am not good at recognizing if the shape in the pic is close to the one on the oscope screen. once you identify a wave shape is off you then have to determine is the fault in this stage or is it something farther back causing the problem. this was my reason for stating that testing with an oscope is subjective at best and i stand by it.

matt remember to make your final set up for with liniarity and height brightness and contrast using the crt that will be used in the set not the test crt. you can get them close on a test crt but final adjustment should be done once the set is back in the cabinet using the crt in the set.

do not touch all the little coils with out proper alignment instructions and without using the proper test equiptment.

all test equipment i used was indeed made before 1960 and it worked great as long as it was properly maintained. personally i would not trust anything solid state as this can mess up also and is much harder to repair in my opinion.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: 1956 Admiral Console - Some general technical questions
PostPosted: Oct Fri 18, 2019 7:17 am 
Member

Joined: Sep Thu 20, 2018 8:53 pm
Posts: 109
Audio Buzz Update!

Based on this suggestion by Thomas, I have determined it is a grounding issue for sure...

Quote:
since a poor ground from the case of the volume control to the chassis is suspected clip a test lead to the chassis and touch the case of the volume control with the other end of the lead. do not touch the terminals of the volume control. this will ground the case so if there is a problem with the ground the problem should clear.

After connecting a test lead from the volume case to the chassis the buzz completely went away and the normal audio continued. It seems then I should be able to trace the currently mounted wire on the volume to the circuit and double check that ground or those surrounding it. This suddenly seems like a much easier fix.

Regarding alignment - I'm not ruling it out as a possibility down the road if I ever acquire the necessary signal generators - if it may further improve any aspect of the set. Although if the image and sound comes in clear I may trust that it is well collaborated already. I do have a new 0-60MHz signal generator but am unsure if that's the same sort of signal generator the SAMs manual refers to; and for audio would need an AM generator.

Edit: I experimented more and found that a combination of a new ground from volume to chassis and turning the audio lug to minimize buzz noise has been very effective. I traced the ground from volume to connection on chassis and it seemed solid but I think as an easy fix I can just run one new ground wire from control to point on chassis and leave the other as is. Although I might still redo the solder pounds of that old one also. But just in testing with the temporary clip lead ran, the default no volume buzz heard in video is no longer audible, and from turning the adjuster I also fully reduced the buzzing on bright screens etc when volume is raised. Playing around with the fine adjustment or tone (on channel knob) can also improve quality.

I'm confident I'll be able to call this a wrap by weekend! Half a year later and thanks to all of the help here or I would have never had a clue what to do. I'm so happy this set has been brought back to life after possibly decades since it was ever used (prior owner had it purely for cosmetic decor and had hauled it across the country at one point).


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: 1956 Admiral Console - Some general technical questions
PostPosted: Oct Fri 18, 2019 9:05 am 
Member

Joined: Jun Thu 25, 2015 3:21 am
Posts: 1352
ok looking at the volume control on the schematic the wire from the volume control wiper appears to be a shielded wire. the shield is supposed to be attached to chassis ground and the inner conductor attached to c54. if indeed that is a shielded wire make sure the shield is sollidly grounded to a ground point. this may be what you described as a wire comming from the volume control to ground. what makes me think this is a shielded wire is the dotted line next to the wire with the ground symble attached to the dotted line. this is not the dotted box around the volume control.

no to align the sound circuit in a tv you would need a fm signal. the ntsc standard was the video signal was am which is amplitude modulation. the sound signal was frequency modulated which is fm. you would need a television sweep generator which can provide both these signals and a marker generator. these were sometimes all in one unit.

if memory serves you would set the fine tuning till you got what was called picture crystalization. this is the sharpest picture. then back it off just a little to improve sound. this set made me think back many years. you also set up brightness and contrast by setting contrast in the middle of its range and adjust brightness till you can just see a good pic in a normally lit room then tweak contrast as needed. there are black and white bars on the 1077 slide for this purpose. set with liniarity and height using the circular pattern on the side once the set is in the cabinet. the same for centering if needed.

i think you got this set repaired inspite of all the problems it had. you now have your first repair under your belt. besides the working set you gained knowledge which is good. good luck with your future repairs and i for one am looking forward to hearing all about them. while back in the day a set that just needed a few tubes changed was good for the repair man's wallet you didt learn much from them other than what tube could cause what problem. get more repairs under your belt and you too will be giving advice to people here as you learn more. books provide the basic knowledge but nothing beats experience. maybe next time it needs repair it will be just a tube but who knows. old equiptment needs maintenance periodically.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: 1956 Admiral Console - Some general technical questions
PostPosted: Oct Fri 18, 2019 6:22 pm 
Member

Joined: May Thu 14, 2015 4:15 pm
Posts: 1845
Location: Dallas, TX
Out of curiosity what signal generator do you have?
Before you put the chassis back into the cabinet, you could take a look at some of the points where the schematic shows the waveforms with your scope, just for future reference. It may also be useful if you work on another TV in the future.
Maybe if you have more questions about using the scope you could post them in the test equipment and tools section.
I'm going to miss the saga that was this thread.

_________________
Tim
It's not the Destination, It's the Journey.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: 1956 Admiral Console - Some general technical questions
PostPosted: Oct Fri 18, 2019 6:45 pm 
Member
User avatar

Joined: Nov Thu 11, 2010 6:03 pm
Posts: 968
Location: Pewaukee, WI
Another option if you want to learn scope use and want your admiral back together and playing in your living room asap is to scope the outputs on your B&K 1077....Just don't scope the Horizontal and vertical plate drive outputs cause those will fry your scope.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: 1956 Admiral Console - Some general technical questions
PostPosted: Oct Fri 18, 2019 9:44 pm 
Member

Joined: Sep Thu 20, 2018 8:53 pm
Posts: 109
Notimetolooz wrote:
Out of curiosity what signal generator do you have?


I picked up a new "Koolertron 60MHz" during a sale on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073P6TKQC It is the only new hardware through this whole process the rest have been vintage specific including the TV analyst, scope, VTVM, CRT tester, capacitor checker.... most needed some new caps but I'm happy to say all of the equipment I got is now fully operational and collaborated.

The signal generator works perfectly with the scope and allows me to really understand the controls easier as I work with it. It can also hook up to computer to create custom wave forms and signals as well. I figure this is probably the best way to follow along with scope tutorials and demonstrations that often use similar generators.

Yes the ground on volume control is a shielded braided style. I will take a closer look this evening to see if the shield has come loose somewhere which could explain why the interference gets through.

My last step will also be to build a new back for it. As AAA's recommended here a long time ago I plan to use the peg board perforated style which has holes through it. I will use a hole saw to cut a 4 or 5 inch diameter in the center for tube components, and then add a heat safe container as the cap to protect the end of the CRT from getting damaged.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: 1956 Admiral Console - Some general technical questions
PostPosted: Oct Sat 19, 2019 9:17 am 
Member

Joined: Jun Thu 25, 2015 3:21 am
Posts: 1352
this sounds like a plan. i think you are allmost ready to put this back in the cabinet. very good job on this set.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: 1956 Admiral Console - Some general technical questions
PostPosted: Oct Sun 20, 2019 1:53 pm 
Member

Joined: Sep Thu 20, 2018 8:53 pm
Posts: 109
Back in the Cabinet!

This weekend I performed a final review of the chassis and components (including trimming of long leads from some replacements to avoid possible shorts, some more heat shrink and minor cable management), removed as much dust and sprayed soft air to remove any loose debris and solder particles, then carefully got everything reconnected and back in the original cabinet. All is working great!

There are certainly some minor nitpicks that I suspect mostly stem from drifted resistors I jut hadn't checked. Namely something is still off with the vertical height in that even at max setting it doesn't manage to stretch to the edge. I basically have to keep vertical height at max value and then increase vertical linearity to fill the screen best, which in turn results in a somewhat stretched upper quadrant.

However, I've found this is not very noticeable in general use (especially if compared to modern deliberate distortion such as stretching 4:3 to fill 16:9 that so many have their TVs set to do) and decided that I will break to enjoy it awhile after six months of "against all odds" type repair work as an absolute newcomer in this field. I also only gave it one quick pass through of collaboration so will likely spend more time making fine adjustments.

The only remaining task is to cut out a back for it which I will likely do later today. I've verified it runs well through the variac at 117V or my normal line which is 123-126V. When there comes a phase two of repairs or maintenance on this one I will probably focus on the vertical height especially. That was a defect noted here at different points but never an area of focus as there were so many other serious issues to figure out.

Comparing the current video and functionality to how it was the first time I managed to get a picture to come on is remarkable. It really does feel like a new set and I love it! Thank you all again so much for taking months of your time to continuously help steer me in the right direction. I hope to put together a new post soon to generically offer my reflections as a novice on "what to do" and "what not to do" when it come to restoring sets to hopefully aid other newcomers in the future who may stumble across it and save a lot of the struggle I personally dealt with due to my own mistakes and errors.

Video of it working in cabinet: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y7v1YXtsRLU (note the artifacts and moire pattern is from video and not visible in person as well as the contrast seems more washed out in video).


Attachments:
TV-1.JPEG
TV-1.JPEG [ 352.09 KiB | Viewed 357 times ]
TV-2.JPEG
TV-2.JPEG [ 332.89 KiB | Viewed 357 times ]
TV-3.JPEG
TV-3.JPEG [ 262.91 KiB | Viewed 357 times ]
TV-4.JPEG
TV-4.JPEG [ 278.33 KiB | Viewed 357 times ]
TV-5.JPEG
TV-5.JPEG [ 276.06 KiB | Viewed 357 times ]
TV-6.JPEG
TV-6.JPEG [ 291.14 KiB | Viewed 357 times ]
Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: 1956 Admiral Console - Some general technical questions
PostPosted: Oct Sun 20, 2019 5:58 pm 
Member
User avatar

Joined: Aug Sat 27, 2011 1:59 am
Posts: 169
Location: Kansas City area
I just spent a couple hours over the last 24 hours reading this entire thread. Congratulations on your repair, Matt and kudos to all that helped you in your quest.

You should be proud of your hard work and diligence!

Brian


Top
 Profile  
 
Post New Topic Post Reply  [ 312 posts ]  Moderators: 7jp4-guy, Mr. Detrola Go to page Previous  1 ... 12, 13, 14, 15, 16  Next

All times are UTC [ DST ]


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 5 guests



Search for:
Jump to:  




























Privacy Policy :: Powered by phpBB