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 Post subject: DX-60 Rear Chassis Lettering
PostPosted: Nov Tue 27, 2018 7:33 pm 
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Joined: Jul Tue 18, 2017 6:42 pm
Posts: 17
HI,

Does anyone have any suggestions for restoring the lettering on the back side of a DX-60 chassis? It appears the original lettering was silk screened on. I suppose decals would work, but won't look the same as the original.

Thanks & 73,

Steve
W9XF


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 Post subject: Re: DX-60 Rear Chassis Lettering
PostPosted: Nov Tue 27, 2018 9:09 pm 
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Joined: Jan Tue 31, 2012 1:55 am
Posts: 8553
Location: Mountains of Mourne. Ireland.
Image
Large image→ https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/SyAAAOSw ... -l1600.jpg

Dry Transfer Letter Sheets.
ebay→ https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R ... s&_sacat=0

Hobby Lobby→ https://www.hobbylobby.com/Art-Supplies ... 8-171-1325


Greg.


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 Post subject: Re: DX-60 Rear Chassis Lettering
PostPosted: Nov Wed 28, 2018 12:26 am 
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Joined: Oct Sun 15, 2006 12:57 pm
Posts: 6349
Location: Liberty, Missouri
Press on letters should be sealed to preserve them. Another possibility would be to use a label maker. I bought this one a few years ago and its worked out well and I've used it a lot. Lots of fonts, symbols, and sizes. It was surprisingly cheap somewhere around 30 bucks, and tapes are around $9 each on line, and are fairly economical. There are probably fifty different tapes, available in two different widths for it. I buy Wh & Bk on clear, Wh on Bk, and Bk on Wh. All in both narrow and wide tapes.

Image

Here are a couple examples of what they look like.
Image

Image

Image

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 Post subject: Re: DX-60 Rear Chassis Lettering
PostPosted: Nov Wed 28, 2018 1:28 am 
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VERY nice work Mike!

Rodger WQ9E


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 Post subject: Re: DX-60 Rear Chassis Lettering
PostPosted: Nov Wed 28, 2018 4:44 am 
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Location: Liberty, Missouri
Thanks Rodger, just wanting to show what can be done with the label maker.

I used the dry transfer letters back in the 60s for avionics and instrument panels, then topped with clear coat, they looked pretty nice.

A label maker that provided you a printed "label" you simply rubbed on, then removed the carrier leaving only the letters on the desired surface to finish drying, would be nice. The application process would be very similar to the rub on letters, but, with your text, font etc. Something not unlike an ink jet, printing onto a Mylar or poly strip. The cured/dried label wouldn't "need" a clear coat, but would provide added protection if applied.

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 Post subject: Re: DX-60 Rear Chassis Lettering
PostPosted: Nov Wed 28, 2018 7:52 am 
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Joined: Jan Thu 01, 1970 1:00 am
Posts: 3608
Location: Monterey California USA
Gee, I have some gear where the owner used letter metal punches. The kind you hit with a hammer. The process was, first decide what to write. Then thoroughly lubricate the user of the punch with Jim Beam, wait half an hour for the lubricant to circulate and then start bashing. The end result looks like the original Code of Hammurabi and is guaranteed permanent as well as readable by feel in the dark. Extra points for mis-spellings. In addition to the apron being thoroughly dented, all the grids of the tubes will now finally be free as birds inside the envelopes, turning the rig into an electronic snow globe collection ready for the next hamfest with a "works great" label on it. I don't understand why you forum members insist on arguing with sucess. :twisted:

PS- I can post pictures here if I have to...

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 Post subject: Re: DX-60 Rear Chassis Lettering
PostPosted: Nov Wed 28, 2018 2:53 pm 
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Joined: Dec Sun 21, 2014 6:37 am
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Location: Portland, TN, USA
You have to, Geoff.

Inquiring minds...

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 Post subject: Re: DX-60 Rear Chassis Lettering
PostPosted: Nov Wed 28, 2018 2:58 pm 
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I agree with Woodchuck!

We could start a "Hall of Shame" thread covering the abusive behavior of prior owners.

I am sure I can find worse examples but the one I own that bugs me the most is an otherwise beautiful National NC-100 where a prior owner installed a noise limiter and drilled a hole right through the National diamond emblem to mount the control. The NC-100 is one of the nicest looking early National receivers with its art deco front panel and magic eye tube but this one has a permanent battle scar. I bought it primarily for the matching speaker (both were $40 at a hamfest so the price was right); I was going to part out the receiver but it is otherwise in great shape and is in use.

Rodger WQ9E


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 Post subject: Re: DX-60 Rear Chassis Lettering
PostPosted: Nov Wed 28, 2018 6:30 pm 
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Joined: May Fri 01, 2015 2:33 am
Posts: 1315
Location: Roslyn,Pa 19001
You might try poking around on the Heathkit Yahoo Group. Not sure if there is a separate DX-60 Group, there is one for the HW-16.

GL
Terry N3GTE


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 Post subject: Re: DX-60 Rear Chassis Lettering
PostPosted: Dec Sat 01, 2018 2:49 pm 
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Joined: Nov Sun 15, 2015 8:32 pm
Posts: 117
Location: Poteau, OK
stevstro wrote:
HI,

Does anyone have any suggestions for restoring the lettering on the back side of a DX-60 chassis? It appears the original lettering was silk screened on. I suppose decals would work, but won't look the same as the original.

Thanks & 73,

Steve
W9XF



You can make very good replacement "Decals" using clear Ink Jet Decal paper.
I made replacement decals for a couple of Heathkit restoration projects. I used MS Word
to choose the type and size the fonts then printed the decals on paper first. I printed the
decals on regular paper first. Once I had the decal fonts sized and typed as close as I
could get to the originals, I printed the decals on clear Ink Jet decal paper. There are a
number of sources for clear ink jet decal paper. I obtained clear ink jet decal paper from

http://www.micromark.com

Printing decals requires Decal Bonder Spray. I used Testors Decal Bonder Spray.
You first print the decals on the Clear Ink Jet decal paper, allowing the ink to thoroughly
dry about 30 to 45 minutes to be sure.

Next you spray a coating of Testors Decal Bonder on the printed side of the decal paper.
Allow this to thoroughly dry, I allowed 2 hours. The Decal Bonder spray should be used
outside or in a space where there's plenty of ventilation and note it's highly flammable.
Once the decal bonder has thoroughly dried, you can cut the decals from the paper, insert
into room temperature clean water for 15 to 20 seconds, then gently slide the decal from
the paper onto the area on the radio you want the decal to appear. Use a cotton swab to
further position the decal in place then roll a new swab over the decal to remove any residual
water. Once the decal has dried thoroughly, apply clear polyurethane over the decals to
protect them from coming off. If you forget to apply clear polyurethane, the decals will
eventually, a day or two, come loose. I used a small paint brush wet sprayed wet with
polyurethane then gently brushed the coating over the entire decal and beyond the edges.
Allow the coating to dry, about 3 hours or so and you're done. The original decals/lettering
must be removed and the surface prepared before applying the new decals. Rough surfaces
are not good. Clean the surface of all grease and dirt.

I used Forceps to hold the decal in the water and to help place the decal at the proper position
while sliding the decal from the paper. You can find Forceps at Harbor Freight for a couple of
dollars. You can also find them elsewhere. They come in handy when dealing with Decals and
other tasks. I use them to hold wires while soldering, bending components leads, and other
tasks.

You will have to prepare the area/surface you plan on applying new decals. First, take a
picture of the original decals so you know what they look like and use that picture to
compare the new decal size and type of font required.

Click the links below then scroll down the page to see the new decals applied to
the devices

My fully Restored Heathkit HR-10B (new decals on top of the chassis, rear apron and on
the 100Khz calibrator)
http://w5rkl.com/restoration-page-2

My fully Restored Heathkit HW-101 (new decals on rear apron)
http://w5rkl.com/heathkit-hw-101-complete-rebuild/

Making White decals is not possible using an ink jet printer and clear ink jet decal paper. If you have a need
for White decals then I recommend Dry Transfer lettering. You can find Dry Transfer lettering in various colors
and font sizes, including White, on the web.

_________________
73
Mike W5RKL
https://www.w5rkl.com


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 Post subject: Re: DX-60 Rear Chassis Lettering
PostPosted: Dec Sat 01, 2018 3:34 pm 
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Joined: Dec Sun 21, 2014 6:37 am
Posts: 1905
Location: Portland, TN, USA
Wow, Mike, that HR-10B looks better than new!

You must have the patience of Job.

I also appreciate the decal tutorial above.

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73, de Chuck K4CCW

“A bad book is the worst thief.”


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 Post subject: Re: DX-60 Rear Chassis Lettering
PostPosted: Dec Sat 01, 2018 4:49 pm 
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Joined: Oct Sun 15, 2006 12:57 pm
Posts: 6349
Location: Liberty, Missouri
Yes that is an excellent tutorial and example.

I used those decals on the panel, in my first post above, for the multi-position meter function switches. They work very well.

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 Post subject: Re: DX-60 Rear Chassis Lettering
PostPosted: Dec Sat 01, 2018 9:43 pm 
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Joined: Nov Sun 15, 2015 8:32 pm
Posts: 117
Location: Poteau, OK
WoodchuckTN wrote:
Wow, Mike, that HR-10B looks better than new!

You must have the patience of Job.

I also appreciate the decal tutorial above.


Thanks WoodchuckTN.

I had a lot of fun restoring the HR-10B and a lot MORE fun recently restoring
the HW-101.

The HR-10B receiver has a "BUG. The 5th restored picture was taken during the fall when those pesky
"Lady Bugs" were flying around outside. A few got into the shack when opening
the door and one put a "Bug" in my HR-10B receiver. They're here again this year
but not as bad since we've had some rather cold days.

I first used MS Word to make decals for the HR-10B receiver and the HRA-10-1
100Khz Calibrator. Once I got the hang of it I used it to make decals for the
full restoration of my HW-101 rear apron.

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73
Mike W5RKL
https://www.w5rkl.com


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 Post subject: Re: DX-60 Rear Chassis Lettering
PostPosted: Dec Sat 01, 2018 10:04 pm 
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Joined: Jul Tue 18, 2017 6:42 pm
Posts: 17
Thanks for the tutorial Mike. Your HR-10B looks like it just came out of the box! What do you use for getting rid of rust? All I know about and have used is naval jelly. Is there anything better out there?

73,

Steve


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 Post subject: Re: DX-60 Rear Chassis Lettering
PostPosted: Dec Sat 01, 2018 11:13 pm 
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Joined: Dec Sun 21, 2014 6:37 am
Posts: 1905
Location: Portland, TN, USA
We are plagued every year with the so-called ladybugs, but like you they were not as bad this year as some prior years.

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“A bad book is the worst thief.”


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 Post subject: Re: DX-60 Rear Chassis Lettering
PostPosted: Dec Sat 01, 2018 11:37 pm 
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Joined: Nov Sun 15, 2015 8:32 pm
Posts: 117
Location: Poteau, OK
stevstro wrote:
Thanks for the tutorial Mike. Your HR-10B looks like it just came out of the box! What do you use for getting rid of rust? All I know about and have used is naval jelly. Is there anything better out there?

73,

Steve


I have read where Naval Jelly can remove rust but I have not tried it. I doubt it removes it completely, most
likely it removes the rust but leaves a stain that can't be removed.

Rust is very difficult to completely remove. When rust is removed it does leave a stain that can't be removed.
The HR-10B chassis was a mess, lots of corrosion and rust pits. I sanded the top of the chassis with a vibrating
sander. This removed the corrosion and pits but left the stains. I uploaded a picture of the chassis after sanding.
Note the dark discoloration caused by rust and years of corrosion. Nothing I tried would remove the discoloration.
At that point I decided to paint the top of the chassis Rustolium Metallic Nickel found at the local Walmart paint
department. That made the chassis look brand new. I did not paint below the chassis since that is the area where
all the ground connections are made. I tried using a Dremel tool with wire brush attachment on another chassis.
That got rid of the rust down to the bare metal but made a mess of the chassis so I don't recommend that. It's
very difficult to remove wire brush marks on metal. Steel wool can help but it will not remove all of the wire brush
marks.

To view the BEFORE and AFTER HR-10B chassis pictures, Click the link below, scroll down to the last "BEFORE"
picture to see the HR-10B bare chassis after sanding then scroll down to the first "AFTER" picture that shows the
chassis AFTER I painted it Rustolium Metallic Nickel paint. Looks brand new. Naturally I understand you can't
always paint a rusted chassis, especially when working with Hallicrafters, Hammarlund, Drake, and others. The
Heathkit AR-3 receiver and AT-1 transmitter had copper clad chassis's. After removing all the parts, leaving a bare
chassis, I sanded both chassis with the vibrating sander. That removed most of the junk and discoloration but it
also took a lot of the copper clad off. I decided to paint the chassis Rustolium Metallic Copper paint also found at
Walmart. That made the chassis's look brand new. Some may think the copper paint will affect ground connections.
I thought that same thing but the Metallic Copper paint has metal in the paint. I mounted 2 multi tab terminal strips
with new #6 star washer and machine screw and nuts. The terminal strips had a tab that was at ground through
the mounting screw. I put the VTVM at it's lowest resistance setting and measured the DC resistance, it was "0 ohms".
I used the same Ohm test after painting the top of the HR-10B chassis and got the same 0 ohm resistance by measuring
not only below the chassis but also the top of the mounting screws on top of the chassis.


http://w5rkl.com/restoration-page-2/

Steve, you can make that DX-60 look brand new by performing a full restoration. This is a time consuming project
but you'll really like what you see after you complete the restoration.

I may have misspoke about the DX-60 being yours Steve. It does really matter, fully restoring an operational DX-60 is not
a difficult task. I had thought of doing that to my DX-60 but have not done that just yet. I may do that as my next full
restoration project, I just have to accumulate all the resistor, capacitors, and other parts necessary to complete the
restoration.

Yep, those lady bugs get into everything. I find them in the lightning, boxes that contain parts, and wall mounted
component trays. I was looking for a 1/4" shaft I knew I had and found a dead one from last year in the bottom of
the tray.

_________________
73
Mike W5RKL
https://www.w5rkl.com


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