Greeting to the forum, I have a Wards Airline 62-425 that has a bad power Transformer. However, I get somewhat odd reading( to me ) when I power it up on a variac. First, tied to power it with variac---no tube lights-turned room lights out to verify. Next I pulled the 5Y3 and started checking voltage. pins 2-8 4.5vac, between pins 3-5 = 368vac and from each leg to chassis =183. Now the transformer is HOT. Powering down. Removing meter before I switch off power. So, assuming the transformer is bad, what are the correct voltages this radio runs on? I don't seem to find it. I have a tranny that has 425vac maybe 212vac each leg---would that work?? But no 5vac just 6.3vac. I don't see two filament taps on the 62-425? shouldn't it have a 5 and a 6.3???
Thank you all in advance for your consideration,
Warm Regards,

Jim

As it came from the factory, your radio had a power transformer with three secondary windings:
(1) 5V for the exclusive use of the rectifier tube filament;
(2) 6.3V for all of the other tube heaters
(3) Center tapped high voltage probably capable of around 230V per side.

The "spare" transformer that you have would probably work BUT since it has no 5V winding you would
have to replace the rectifier tube with a couple of 1N4007 silicon diodes. Or you could rewire the rectifier socket to use a 6X5 tube (not a great solution, IMO).

Jim,

The original transformer should have three windings: 5V, 6.3V, and high voltage center tapped.

You should recheck the transformer with the 6.3V winding disconnected from the radio. Since the tubes didn't light, there could be a short in the radio causing the transformer to over heat.

If the transformer still gets hot with the rectifier pulled and the 6.3V disconnected, it very likely has an internal short.

Do you know any of the current ratings for the replacement transformer or the mfg. type?

I happen to have the same radio in a different color (https://www.radiomuseum.org/r/montgomery_airline_62_265.html) so I can make some measurements if you need them.

Jay

Lorenz200w, and jnTX,
After removing it the transformer does have 3 sec. winding, 5, 6.3 and? I get about 387vac. But no, I have not tried retesting it. I think I will do that right now. Thank you both for your help. Hammond has a trans. 5, 6.3 480vac may be too much.

any thoughts??
Regards,
Jim

There was an AC/DC version of that radio without a transformer as model 62-260. It is about 90% the same as the 62-245. It would require rewiring the filaments in series.

The AC/DC used a 43 instead of a 41 for the output tube but they are very similar except for the filament voltage. You could keep the 41 if you used a capacitor for the filament voltage drop instead of a ballast tube as was used in the 62-260.

Making the radio into an AC/DC would cost about $10 in parts but you would need to be able to do the rewiring from a schematic diagram. If you want to go that way, I can draw up a schematic with a capacitor voltage drop.

Jay

Lorenz200w, and jnTX, Genius pure Genius!! No I do not have a bad transformer. Did what you said, tested 6.3vac under no load full Voltage--115vac pri---6.3vac no problem. Then the 5vac, then the High voltage which I got 470vac steady with my Fluke 8050. All voltages were stable and cool. The tranny did not even heat up. did this test for 10min. Now for the short---checked all wiring--O.K ohmed out entire filament string no problem there. But when I got to the newly installed dial lamp assy I purchased from the Ham fest----well there you go. Don't know what is wrong, just pulled it and pitched it. I temporarily tested another dial lamp assy-with alligator clips to the trannys 6.3v winding and Lights. So now I have to reinstall the transformer. But that's better then buying a new one. Of course I will still have to figure out the dial belt thing. Beryllium copper strip.
Thank you all again for your help,
Warm Regards,

Jim

Jim,

Good to hear no transformer problem.

If you figure out how to take that dial assembly apart, let us know. Someone else was trying to replace the dial on one of these but we couldn't find a way to remove the dial pointer. I do remember that you need to remove the dial shaft and grease a bearing so look for that.

You can probably get some brass shim stock and cut a new drive belt. Do you have the old one to go by?

Jay

I have a 62-265, the seldom seen white version. My power transformer was bad, so I used one from a derelict Philco chassis, found at a swap meet for $5. It had no 5 volt filament winding, so I did things the Philco way and changed the socket to use an 84.

Hello again, I have pictures of the dial assy. Hope this works
You will see the whole thing slides of the shaft, all you have to do is field adjust the bracket so the dial comes out. Field adjust=bend
The strap you see is the great experiment. It's a fabric coat vinyl material I'm going to use as the belt. I put the eyelet in but the spring stretches the fabric. Hope this helps.

Jim

I think you are going to have to go to something that doesn't stretch like brass shim stock.

Something like 0.001" would probably work best. Stainless steel would also work but a lot harder to cut and make holes.

You might also try regular dial string. You would need to make a loop around the pin on each of the pullies and put the spring between the ends to keep it tight.

Jay