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 Post subject: Cleaning the chassis: what do use?
PostPosted: Oct Thu 25, 2018 5:12 pm 
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Location: Hamilton, Ontario, Canada. L8R 3H4
I would like to clean the metal chassis (upper and inner) of my radio. Luckily, it has no rust and looks to be capable of getting as clean as the radio in the picture below, which is the same make and model as mine. I tried removing the tubes, but they felt very stiff, so I'd prefer to leave them and not risk breaking them. This will make cleaning a little more challenging.

I was thinking of using rubbing alcohol and Q-Tips. Would this work? I want the metal to come out shiny with little effort (as I'd be negotiating the wires and parts on the bottom of the chassis and not be able to apply much pressure in many areas), but I don't want to cause any stains.


Attachments:
File comment: This is not my actual radio but the same make and model.
dumont-inside.jpg
dumont-inside.jpg [ 126.29 KiB | Viewed 1335 times ]

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51' Crosley Alarm Clock Radio–D-25MN
57' Heathkit EA-2 Amplifier
58' DuMont–Sound Stage 200
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 Post subject: Re: Cleaning the chassis: what do use?
PostPosted: Oct Thu 25, 2018 11:03 pm 
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Location: N. Palm Bch, Fl.
The tubes look fragile, but their actually pretty strong. Grasp them with your fingers and pull up as you work them around in a small circle. I have also pushed them back a little so I see a gap. Slide a small screw driver under and slowly pull back. Then they come right out. Some here may bock at this idea, but it has worked for me.

I've had pretty good luck with alcohol cleaning the chassis if it's not in real bad shape. I use the Qtips on a stick. You can reach further in with them. Amazon has them at a reasonable price. I wouldn't clean under the chassis unless you had a capacitor go Poopoo there. No one will ever look there and you want to not disturb as much as possible. Especially the wires laying against the chassis. They were placed that way for a reason. Usually the filament string.
Show us a picture of yours when you finish.

Good luck.
Freeman


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 Post subject: Re: Cleaning the chassis: what do use?
PostPosted: Oct Fri 26, 2018 12:07 am 
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When cleaning, you WANT to remove the tubes. Many reasons....not the least being you don't want dirt going under them. Also, if there is oxidation on the pins, you'll probably fix it in the process of removal/ re- insertion. Regardless, you want to be able to impact 9

I use 91% isopropyl alcohol for most cleaning....but be aware that it can attack paint and ink markings. I also keep high-purity IPA on hand. And sometimes the best choice is paint thinner or WD-40.

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 Post subject: Re: Cleaning the chassis: what do use?
PostPosted: Oct Fri 26, 2018 12:58 am 
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Location: Hamilton, Ontario, Canada. L8R 3H4
Freeman wrote:
The tubes look fragile, but their actually pretty strong. Grasp them with your fingers and pull up as you work them around in a small circle. I have also pushed them back a little so I see a gap. Slide a small screw driver under and slowly pull back. Then they come right out. Some here may bock at this idea, but it has worked for me.

I tried again (without the screwdriver), and I was able to remove them all. That was quite intense! :shock:

Quote:
I've had pretty good luck with alcohol cleaning the chassis if it's not in real bad shape. I use the Qtips on a stick. You can reach further in with them. Amazon has them at a reasonable price.
Show us a picture of yours when you finish.

Good luck.
Freeman

The only thing I can see affecting the chassis is general dust and slight grim/blue dust. What is that blue dust, anyways? Nonetheless, all of this seems to disappear with a little cleaning. I'll just take the unit out of the case so I can reach all points.

Quote:
I wouldn't clean under the chassis unless you had a capacitor go Poopoo there. No one will ever look there and you want to not disturb as much as possible. Especially the wires laying against the chassis. They were placed that way for a reason. Usually the filament string.

You're right. I won't be touching the bottom. No use taking a chance for nil gain.

Quote:
Show us a picture of yours when you finish.

Would love to post a pic here when I'm finished. :D

Quote:
When cleaning, you WANT to remove the tubes. Many reasons....not the least being you don't want dirt going under them. Also, if there is oxidation on the pins, you'll probably fix it in the process of removal/ re- insertion. Regardless, you want to be able to impact 9

I use 91% isopropyl alcohol for most cleaning....but be aware that it can attack paint and ink markings. I also keep high-purity IPA on hand. And sometimes the best choice is paint thinner or WD-40.

I actually wasn't going to pull the tubes out until I saw this second comment; I was just so scared to break them. :(

So far I just removed and reinserted them all three times. I've not yet cleaned around them but will on the weekend when I have enough time to do a good job. Might try paint thinner for the tough parts if needed.

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57' Heathkit EA-2 Amplifier
58' DuMont–Sound Stage 200


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 Post subject: Re: Cleaning the chassis: what do use?
PostPosted: Oct Fri 26, 2018 1:34 am 
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Joined: Jan Thu 01, 1970 1:00 am
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Location: Montvale NJ, 07645
I tape the sockets over when cleaning. You don't want crud going down into them.
Windex is my favorite.

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 Post subject: Re: Cleaning the chassis: what do use?
PostPosted: Oct Fri 26, 2018 11:53 am 
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Location: Hamilton, Ontario, Canada. L8R 3H4
Scott wrote:
I tape the sockets over when cleaning. You don't want crud going down into them.
...
Image

Will do. Nice radio, btw. :wink:

This may be a little off-topic, but I see that some of the wiring on the top of my chassis is very gunky. Would it be good to replace that wiring with some nice new copper wire? Would offer much better aesthetics.

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57' Heathkit EA-2 Amplifier
58' DuMont–Sound Stage 200


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 Post subject: Re: Cleaning the chassis: what do use?
PostPosted: Oct Fri 26, 2018 1:52 pm 
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Joined: Jan Thu 01, 1970 1:00 am
Posts: 4513
Location: Charleston, W.Va.
Hi bedtime,
I usually use "409", "Simple Green", or similar cleaner. I especially like the "Simple Green" concentrate which is diluted with water; you can vary the amount of water added to make the solution as concentrated as needed for the particular job at hand. If there are any greasy spot(s) I first clean up those with mineral spirits. I use one of those ScotchBrite green scouring pads which can be cut into small pieces as desired; Q-tips when necessary to reach into tight spots.

bedtime wrote:
This may be a little off-topic, but I see that some of the wiring on the top of my chassis is very gunky. Would it be good to replace that wiring with some nice new copper wire? Would offer much better aesthetics.

You can either replace the wires entirely, or disconnect only one end and slip a piece of heat-shrink tubing over the original insulation.

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 Post subject: Re: Cleaning the chassis: what do use?
PostPosted: Oct Sat 27, 2018 9:09 am 
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Joined: Jan Thu 01, 1970 1:00 am
Posts: 3255
Location: Nr London, England, SS1 3PT
The picture in the first post isnt how it looked originally!

To me its over done, probably with metal polish, which can remove any plating that was there. So then you have to protect it with something to stop corrosion.

Why go for the Custom Car look? Free of dust and dirt is enough.

Usually IPA for me Gary


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 Post subject: Re: Cleaning the chassis: what do use?
PostPosted: Oct Sat 27, 2018 3:36 pm 
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Location: Hamilton, Ontario, Canada. L8R 3H4
Poston Drake wrote:
Hi bedtime,
I usually use "409", "Simple Green", or similar cleaner. I especially like the "Simple Green" concentrate which is diluted with water; you can vary the amount of water added to make the solution as concentrated as needed for the particular job at hand. If there are any greasy spot(s) I first clean up those with mineral spirits. I use one of those ScotchBrite green scouring pads which can be cut into small pieces as desired; Q-tips when necessary to reach into tight spots.

I ended up using an ammonia/water mixture (1:2) to clean to chassis, as this is what I had on hand. I used a rag dress shirt as a scrubber. For the tough parts, I used a green scrub pad as you said, but this was for rough surfaces usually, such as the speaker magnet metal cover and the transformer case. I removed the tubes and placed masking tape over the holes as suggested.

bedtime wrote:
You can either replace the wires entirely, or disconnect only one end and slip a piece of heat-shrink tubing over the original insulation.

When I get the solder, I'll do this. As is, I left the wires undisturbed, so they will look grimy in the pics; I didn't want to take any chances, especially if they are going to be replaced anyways.


Quote:
The picture in the first post isnt how it looked originally!

To me its over done, probably with metal polish, which can remove any plating that was there. So then you have to protect it with something to stop corrosion.

Why go for the Custom Car look? Free of dust and dirt is enough.

Usually IPA for me Gary

Yeah, agreed. Having the same radio, I can see many places where he washed off information. He wants $700 USD for that radio. My guess is that he'll get 1/3 of that if he's lucky.

The pics were not easy to post, but considering all the help and advice you all have given me, it's the least I can do.


Attachments:
File comment: Gotta love that logo. :D
15406457857770.jpg
15406457857770.jpg [ 96.45 KiB | Viewed 1195 times ]
File comment: Sorry about the blurriness. I had a heck of a time getting my Android device to post these. The original pics that I took were clear, but having shrunk them to a low quality to allow for posting, they went a little blurry.
15406459105450.jpg
15406459105450.jpg [ 95.95 KiB | Viewed 1195 times ]
File comment: Speaker crossover cap to be replaced.
15406464237170.jpg
15406464237170.jpg [ 69.32 KiB | Viewed 1195 times ]
File comment: I've turned the AM ferrite rod on an angle, as it helps my stations come in better. I'll soon be taking this antenna out entirely and replacing with an internal homemade loop antenna.
15406459640833.jpg
15406459640833.jpg [ 68.72 KiB | Viewed 1195 times ]
File comment: I used a tiny flathead screwdriver and very lightly scraped off the rust around most of the solder joints. What can I use to protect this metal from rusting/oxidation? Will a light coat of mineral oil suffice?
15406460742351.jpg
15406460742351.jpg [ 61.22 KiB | Viewed 1195 times ]
File comment: Large orange cap will be removed as soon as I get replacement caps. Rectifier may or may not be removed in future; I really like the look of it.
15406459893535.jpg
15406459893535.jpg [ 70.15 KiB | Viewed 1195 times ]
File comment: Love the look of that rectifier; it's so oldschool.
15406459999936.jpg
15406459999936.jpg [ 72.61 KiB | Viewed 1195 times ]
File comment: Grimy wires to be replaced with new solid copper wiring.
15406460889802.jpg
15406460889802.jpg [ 66.96 KiB | Viewed 1195 times ]
File comment: Small blemish on bottom of dial.
15406459462312.jpg
15406459462312.jpg [ 71.86 KiB | Viewed 1195 times ]
File comment: How to clean this button so the speckles are gone?
15406432732502.jpg
15406432732502.jpg [ 244.13 KiB | Viewed 1195 times ]

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51' Crosley Alarm Clock Radio–D-25MN
57' Heathkit EA-2 Amplifier
58' DuMont–Sound Stage 200
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 Post subject: Re: Cleaning the chassis: what do use?
PostPosted: Oct Sun 28, 2018 10:31 am 
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Joined: Jan Thu 01, 1970 1:00 am
Posts: 3255
Location: Nr London, England, SS1 3PT
"Grimy wires" may clean up fine with IPA and cotton buds. Insulation looks OK so why replace them, I'd stick with keeping it looking original.

Not sure that a home made loop aerial will be better than the ferrite rod and you have to make that tune across the band with the existing tuning capacitor?

Don't know if a small loop inside the radio? on the back maybe? will perform better than the ferrite rod? Perhaps someone will comment who knows more about this.

Gary


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 Post subject: Re: Cleaning the chassis: what do use?
PostPosted: Oct Sun 28, 2018 8:48 pm 
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Location: Hamilton, Ontario, Canada. L8R 3H4
Radio Fixer wrote:
"Grimy wires" may clean up fine with IPA and cotton buds. Insulation looks OK so why replace them, I'd stick with keeping it looking original.

Might just leave them as is and clean with alcohol as you said then.

Quote:
Not sure that a home made loop aerial will be better than the ferrite rod and you have to make that tune across the band with the existing tuning capacitor?

Don't know if a small loop inside the radio? on the back maybe? will perform better than the ferrite rod? Perhaps someone will comment who knows more about this.

Gary

I swapped a loop antenna on my Westinghouse, and it picked up much more stations (18 vs 8).

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51' Crosley Alarm Clock Radio–D-25MN
57' Heathkit EA-2 Amplifier
58' DuMont–Sound Stage 200


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 Post subject: Re: Cleaning the chassis: what do use?
PostPosted: Oct Tue 30, 2018 2:35 am 
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Joined: Jan Thu 01, 1970 1:00 am
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Location: Montvale NJ, 07645
bedtime wrote:
Scott wrote:
I tape the sockets over when cleaning. You don't want crud going down into them.
...

Will do. Nice radio, btw. :wink:


Thank you. Looks pretty good after it is all waxed up and back together.
Image


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 Post subject: Re: Cleaning the chassis: what do use?
PostPosted: Oct Tue 30, 2018 12:29 pm 
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Joined: Sep Sat 29, 2018 8:42 pm
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Location: Hamilton, Ontario, Canada. L8R 3H4
Scott wrote:
bedtime wrote:
Scott wrote:
I tape the sockets over when cleaning. You don't want crud going down into them.
...

Will do. Nice radio, btw. :wink:


Thank you. Looks pretty good after it is all waxed up and back together.
Image

So purdy! :D

What did you use for the waxing? Could mine look like that with wax? Amazing!

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51' Crosley Alarm Clock Radio–D-25MN
57' Heathkit EA-2 Amplifier
58' DuMont–Sound Stage 200


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 Post subject: Re: Cleaning the chassis: what do use?
PostPosted: Oct Tue 30, 2018 2:19 pm 
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Location: Montvale NJ, 07645
bedtime wrote:
What did you use for the waxing? Could mine look like that with wax? Amazing!

No. This set has original factory chrome on it.
The basic steps to cleaning are the same regardless of your plating. Automotive wax could be applied to any plating and will help preserve it and protect against rust.


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