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 Post subject: Clear Poly, Final Coats?
PostPosted: Dec Tue 04, 2018 4:34 pm 
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I am just about finished with the Minwax Polyshade - I used American Chestnut, satin finish. Any suggestions for the clear poly? I am thinking about using Minwax Fast drying Poly in the can (NO sanding between coats!). Should I use a satin, or a gloss?

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 Post subject: Re: Clear Poly, Final Coats?
PostPosted: Dec Tue 04, 2018 4:47 pm 
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ArthurTransOceanic wrote:
I am just about finished with the Minwax Polyshade - I used American Chestnut, satin finish. Any suggestions for the clear poly? I am thinking about using Minwax Fast drying Poly in the can (NO sanding between coats!). Should I use a satin, or a gloss?
Satin, reason is with a no sanding the silica flattening agent will act as a binder between coats and the satin stain. However, there will not be a mirror like wet look to the finish. In most instances this is good as refracted glare will obscure the delicate grains and wood shadings.

Use a new brush, stir the product gently or have the can shake the day before. The silica will settle in the can noticeably after a couple of hours. Flow the finish on, vigorous brushing will create bubbles, stop working an area as soon as brush drag is noticed (finish is beginning to polymerize).

Choose a dust free area with no air motion, a plastic bottle sprayer with water will bring down the dust before coating but not too much to make the air humid. There will probably be some "nips" no matter how hard one tries. Use two coats then wait at least two weeks so the varnish is good and hard. Use 600 of finer wetback sandpaper with water to carefully sand out the nips with a sanding block backing. If the finish now looks uneven satin gloss, use a fine grad auto compound, it is finer than powder pumice but coarse than rottenstone. Use with oil or water...

I did many of my 20's sets 40 ya with cabinet rubbing varnish, still look very good when wiped down with lemon oil.

I keep house dust on my radios to protect the finish :D

YMMV

Chas

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 Post subject: Re: Clear Poly, Final Coats?
PostPosted: Dec Tue 04, 2018 5:51 pm 
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Chas wrote:
ArthurTransOceanic wrote:
I am just about finished with the Minwax Polyshade - I used American Chestnut, satin finish. Any suggestions for the clear poly? I am thinking about using Minwax Fast drying Poly in the can (NO sanding between coats!). Should I use a satin, or a gloss?
Satin, reason is with a no sanding the silica flattening agent will act as a binder between coats and the satin stain. However, there will not be a mirror like wet look to the finish. In most instances this is good as refracted glare will obscure the delicate grains and wood shadings.

Use a new brush, stir the product gently or have the can shake the day before. The silica will settle in the can noticeably after a couple of hours. Flow the finish on, vigorous brushing will create bubbles, stop working an area as soon as brush drag is noticed (finish is beginning to polymerize).

Choose a dust free area with no air motion, a plastic bottle sprayer with water will bring down the dust before coating but not too much to make the air humid. There will probably be some "nips" no matter how hard one tries. Use two coats then wait at least two weeks so the varnish is good and hard. Use 600 of finer wetback sandpaper with water to carefully sand out the nips with a sanding block backing. If the finish now looks uneven satin gloss, use a fine grad auto compound, it is finer than powder pumice but coarse than rottenstone. Use with oil or water...

I did many of my 20's sets 40 ya with cabinet rubbing varnish, still look very good when wiped down with lemon oil.

I keep house dust on my radios to protect the finish :D

YMMV

Chas


I was thinking about going with the spray version, so as not to have to sand between coats, and to not have to use a brush.

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 Post subject: Re: Clear Poly, Final Coats?
PostPosted: Dec Tue 04, 2018 8:02 pm 
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I refinished a Magnavox stereo cabinet with polyurethane over shellac. I used the shellac as a seal coat over filler and stain, then two flow coats, sanded with 320 before the top coat of clear gloss poly. I put on five thin coats of poly, about an hour between coats. I let this cure about six weeks before I touched it. It takes a long time for poly to cure and shrink so the final sanding can be done. I started with 400 grit wet, then went finer and finer, ending up with 1500 grit wet. I used a block. Then I used Finesse with a small buffer. This took down the gloss, while keeping the deep wet look for the grain. I avoid satin or semi-gloss because, to my eyes, it dulls the deep grain look. The good part about poly is that it is almost indestructible. The downside is it takes a long time for it to cure so you can work it.


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 Post subject: Re: Clear Poly, Final Coats?
PostPosted: Dec Tue 04, 2018 8:13 pm 
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Beautiful!

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 Post subject: Re: Clear Poly, Final Coats?
PostPosted: Dec Tue 04, 2018 8:24 pm 
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Thank you! My next project is refinishing a Stereo Theater cabinet, considerably larger than this one. It was originally finished in lacquer. I don't know if I'll do lacquer or shellac and poly. I really believe I'm wasting my time using lacquer, but it is the original finish.

I do not like brushing poly. It is too hard to get it sanded flat. I spray it with a cheap Harbor Freight detail gun. Outside, under an oak tree. On my next project, I'm going to spray the shellac as well. I have trouble sanding out brush marks.

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 Post subject: Re: Clear Poly, Final Coats?
PostPosted: Dec Tue 04, 2018 8:35 pm 
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I am not quite sure why poly, or poly stains, are so looked down upon by the radio restoration community. I think it's beautiful stuff.

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 Post subject: Re: Clear Poly, Final Coats?
PostPosted: Dec Wed 05, 2018 1:21 am 
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So do I! I have no objection to someone who prefers to waste their time, or prefers to do something the "easy" way. I believe a lot of guys are afraid to try poly and admit it, afraid "the group" will criticize them. These are the same guys who criticize a poly finish, yet wring their hands when a cabinet is repurposed. Some people feel a sense of moral superiority, I reckon. That their way is the only right way to do something. That is their problem. Just because a cabinet was finished in lacquer in 1930 does not obligate me to do it the same way in 2018.

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 Post subject: Re: Clear Poly, Final Coats?
PostPosted: Dec Wed 05, 2018 4:56 am 
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electra225 wrote:
So do I! I have no objection to someone who prefers to waste their time, or prefers to do something the "easy" way. I believe a lot of guys are afraid to try poly and admit it, afraid "the group" will criticize them. These are the same guys who criticize a poly finish, yet wring their hands when a cabinet is repurposed. Some people feel a sense of moral superiority, I reckon. That their way is the only right way to do something. That is their problem. Just because a cabinet was finished in lacquer in 1930 does not obligate me to do it the same way in 2018.


Thank you for understanding. I got ripped when I said I was going with a poly stain. Now, I could not be any happier!

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 Post subject: Re: Clear Poly, Final Coats?
PostPosted: Dec Wed 05, 2018 10:47 pm 
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I have a personal beef with polyurethane, and that is that it is hard to repair, so you have to strip it off if it gets crazed or water-marked.
But I would not criticize a poly-coated radio if it looked right to me.

I have a Philco cabinet that has a water-damaged poly finish, needs way more elbow grease and is not worth the effort, I'm afraid.

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 Post subject: Re: Clear Poly, Final Coats?
PostPosted: Dec Thu 06, 2018 2:33 pm 
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I plan on putting some cleat poly over this when I am done. It really is shaping up nicely1 A

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 Post subject: Re: Clear Poly, Final Coats?
PostPosted: Dec Sun 09, 2018 2:48 am 
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Are you planning to sand before you apply another coat? You might scuff it with 320 before you recoat. That will give the top coat something to bite to. Good luck.

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 Post subject: Re: Clear Poly, Final Coats?
PostPosted: Dec Sat 15, 2018 1:24 pm 
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During the finishing class I took, of course we used lacquer, but we did one panel with polyurethane.

We used Waterlox brand and it was amazing. Way better than MinWax. It has excellent leveling and can be sanded and polished after.

https://waterlox.com/

One thing about polyurethane is that it is a more durable finish than Lacquer.

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