I have a Zenith TransOceanic radio, a G500.

The capacitor issue is the one with three in one capacitor in the round tin can. The cartouche's are not on the bottom of the capacitor.

On my parts list from Zenith;

C1:A 60/150
C1:b 40/150
Ci:c 20/150
C1:d 200/10

On replacing the three capacitors I need a little help in identifying what wires goes where. Can someone post a photo of the bottom of the can and the orientation of the wires.

Thanks

Use the schematic to ID where all the connections go.
http://www.nostalgiaair.org/pagesbymode ... 025526.pdf

Common practice is to disconnect the original capacitor, but leave it in place for appearance. Then install a terminal strip and install 4 discrete capacitors. It is common to use 160-volt parts, but many of us recommend that the rating be 250 volts----the difference is cost is negligible.
For C1D, I'd use a 25-volt part.

All I need is a single photo of a G500 where the new wiring fits the lugs, with the diagram, the cartouche is not visible on mine. The H500 has different placement.

I have four different schematics, that are really good, however I just want to make sure it's 100% correct.

What is "cartouche" in this context??

Are you replacing the whole capacitor can with a similar one----or are you installing 4 separate parts?

I believe he is referring to those symbols on most multisection can capacitors,

Square, triangle, curve

To indicate which capacitor is at which lug.

-Steve

Makes sense---but certainly an interesting usage of the word!! If it's a replacement multi-section can type---that is not labelled--then a photo of the original config may not help

This is from a H500 and may not be the same for the G500. I generally restuff the cans and this is what I do. Disregard the colors I have there. I draw the circle and put in the tabs. Then follow the wire from the output of R21. One wire will go to the double resister pack (Can't remember the proper name). Another will go to the can. That will be the 60uf cap in the can. Now follow the center wire on that resister pack and that will be the 20uf cap. Now you only have 2 left and you should be able figure out which is which by just following the schematic back to the can. If you fill in all the connections to the can, you can now remove one section at a time and connect to the proper capacitor. Checking and rechecking your work is VERY important. A wire in the wrong place can be devastating. I have blown every filament in the radio because of a wiring mistake. I highly recommend replacing the 1L6 with a 1R5 until your ready to do an alignment.



Hope this helps.
Freeman

Which chassis do you have?

If you pull the chassis you should see... viewtopic.php?p=1501125#p1501125


▲ Silly money - viewing pleasure only: https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R ... 9&_sacat=0

Greg.

There is also a very nice H500 Restoration guide that was put together by members John Kopp and Ed Morris of this forum some years ago. Here's a link to a discussion on the guide with some pics: http://www.antiqueradios.com/forums/vie ... 1&t=205305

If I may say so, I do think that there are some indicator shapes on the outside of the tabs, rather than the inside where you would ordinarily look for them.

I have the entire PDF here which I can send to you if you will PM me your email address.

In the meantime, here's a blowup of the Picture from that Restoration Guide showing the can capacitor wiring...

Badrestorer’s Illustrated Guide to Restoring the Zenith Trans-Oceanic H500
http://www.renovatedradios.com/articleP ... nGuide.pdf

43.5MB

Greg.

Thanks.

The G500 is different than the H600. The drawing uploaded of the H500 is exactly what I'm looking for in the G500. If anyone has a hand drawing of it that would be great.

If not I'll have to work on it double checking it.

Ive double checked the wiring, the H500 is a different setup. Besides the capacitor the H500 placement of parts, resistors, capacitors is different. Only a few things are simular.

Didn't see the answer to this.....

Replaced with four capacitors, I was able to figure out the sequence. Replacing everything, capacitors, resistors, power cord, this makes more room for installing the four capacitors. At least I am 90% sure of it being wired correctly, thats why I asked for help. I have several schematics, the cartouche is missing, so I'm studying the schematics.

This is going to be my "daily" radio, I found a G500 that was trashed, the case was broken, modified. After I repaired the case restored the original shape, using one of my radios as a template, I recovered the radio skin. So it's no big loss on the antique part.

Becides, I have two G500, and two H500 radio that are my "museum pieces" they are exactly factory made no modifications, all original. One was a Korean war radio from a family member who traveled with it everywhere. It looks really good, he took real good care of it.

I don't normally post on the forums, I usually don't get the answer I'm looking for, and from my experience I don't play well with others.

???
We try....

One more think, my page with photos of my project are here:

https://sites.google.com/site/zenithg500rebuilding/

It's just me I'm naturally abby-normal.

I'm still not 100% sure of the capacitor colors. Anyone have anything???????

I don't know what you mean by "capacitor colors".

The best way to check the connections is to use the schematic. It can be intimidating at first, but we can help....

I have a 5g40 chassis.

I'm replacing the
A 60-150
B 40-150
C 20-150
D 200-10


The color wires soldered on the can is:

1st) 11:00 position; Two: one wire to a red to #3 3V4, one to a red wire to volume switch
2nd) 1:00 position; One: white/brown wire to R31 middle post
3rd) 7:00 position; Two: one to a resistor R32, one to a white wire to R31 post closest to the back of the chassis ,
4th) 5:00 position; Two: one wire gray, one wire brown to R31

I believe that:

A 60-150 TO number 3 above.
B 40-150 TO number 2 above.
C 20-150 TO number 1 above.
D 200-10 TO number 4 above.