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 Post subject: Tackle the easy one first......
PostPosted: Apr Sun 07, 2019 9:31 pm 
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Location: Ashhurst, New Zealand
I bought a couple of Sony radios on our local auction for say US$25 the pair - an ICF-SW1 and an ICF3600D, both early computerised multiband. The 3600 is totally dead and the SW1 motorboats. Ha! just change a couple of electrolytics in the SW1 and she'll be a good'un. No, sorry, totally wrong.

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This is what you see when just taking the back off - and there's three PC boards stacked in there with surface mount components on both sides. The electrolytics are tin cans about 1/4" diameter tantalums and the solder traces are very difficult to get an iron to them. None available at my local component shop so I'll have to research a supplier.....

Oh, what fun! The reviews say it's a very nice pocket radio which goes well - it's only about 3 inches by 4 inches so I've bought myself a challenge!

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 Post subject: Re: Tackle the easy one first......
PostPosted: Apr Sun 07, 2019 9:38 pm 
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GL Marty. If you have a 4-1/2 volt wall wart, try testing with that, to see if it'll stop the motorboating. If it has adjustable IF filters, maybe try tweaking them.

All Electronics has both Aluminum Surface Mount, and Tantalum caps, which BTW are two different types;

https://www.allelectronics.com/category ... unt/1.html

https://www.allelectronics.com/category ... lum/1.html

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 Post subject: Re: Tackle the easy one first......
PostPosted: Apr Sun 07, 2019 10:45 pm 
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Good luck Martin. Certainly doesn't look the easiest of tasks.


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 Post subject: Re: Tackle the easy one first......
PostPosted: Apr Sun 07, 2019 11:48 pm 
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The ICF-SW1 will indeed need re-capping. It's an easy enough job if you take your time, if rather fiddly. You will probably need to clean the board under the old capacitors as the electrolyte is almost guaranteed to have leaked.
Once repaired, they perform surprisingly well for a small radio, so it is well worth the effort to get it sorted.


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 Post subject: Re: Tackle the easy one first......
PostPosted: Apr Mon 08, 2019 1:05 am 
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I've watched a couple of YouTubes where the SW1 has been worked on, mostly replacing the caps - some were quite brutal, ripping them out with a pair of pliers almost like pulling teeth! I wouldn't like to risk lifting the tracks 'cos they look very fine and I haven't looked closely at the board edge yet - it may be a multi-layer job much like the computer mother boards although it may be a bit too early for that technique. Anyway, it's going to be like learning to swim by being thrown into the deep end of the pool!

To give you a better idea of the size, the battery holder takes only two AA cells!

Thanks for your comments, every little bit helps!

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 Post subject: Re: Tackle the easy one first......
PostPosted: Apr Mon 08, 2019 2:46 am 
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Location: Toronto ON
I've re-capped three of that model so far, and it is indeed tight quarters in there. Rather than trying to source replacement surface mount caps, it's much easier to find (and fit) the teeny sized leaded electrolytics now available - you can lay them down in the space.
While you have it apart, you'll want to replace the display light LED with a modern bright one - I've found either the orange or aqua ones best for visibility.

Joe


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 Post subject: Re: Tackle the easy one first......
PostPosted: Apr Mon 08, 2019 3:05 pm 
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You might need to be 'carefully brutal' with removing the old capacitors. Sometimes twisting with a pair of pliers or cutting the tops off with wire cutters is the only way to go. The reason for this is that the leaked electrolyte makes de-soldering the capacitors very difficult due to the corrosion - you're likely to pull the tracks off the board by trying to de-solder them or by not using a hot enough iron.
When I worked on mine, I used traditional surface mount capacitors rather than the wire-ended type.


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 Post subject: Re: Tackle the easy one first......
PostPosted: Apr Mon 08, 2019 6:03 pm 
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For those electrolytic caps, put some flux down on the two pads and use two soldering irons with small tips. While the solder is melting, try to very gently move the component. Don't force it off. When the solder is completely molten, just flip the cap off the pads using the two soldering irons. If one pad is connected to a large ground plane - that side is going to take more heating.

Edit: Another option would be to mask off the areas around the component with Kapton tape, add some flux and use a heat gun and tweezers to get it off. If there's components on the opposite side of the board, those should be taped down with the Kapton.


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 Post subject: Re: Tackle the easy one first......
PostPosted: Apr Tue 09, 2019 5:42 am 
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Have you checked this switch is in the correct position?
-Ed


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 Post subject: Re: Tackle the easy one first......
PostPosted: Apr Tue 09, 2019 10:13 am 
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Yup - it's in the 9kHz position - but until I cure the motorboating it probably doesn't matter! :)

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