What glue do you guys suggest for bakelite repair? From what I've read I'd need to something thin. I don't have any chunks missing from the cabinet, it's just a crack.

I haven't done a lot of it, but thin cyanoacrylate seems to work as well as anything and definitely wicks into the cracks nicely. I would at least use hobby grade CA, supermarket types (Krazy Glue, etc) have so many stabiizers to keep it from going bad in the bottle that they are much weaker. Industrial grade is extremely strong but has to be handled carefully to keep it from going bad and has a very short shelf life.

Brett

IMHO definitely cyanoacrylate. If it is a typical clean long top of cabinet break you will occasionally be lucky and the break will almost vanish. Do reinforce on the bottom side after the cyanoacrylate cures. Fiberglass and resin for a big job or simply a bead of Goop on a small cabinet,

There's a technique someone discovered involving wet-sanding with superglue. I was skeptical until I tried it. It bonds cracks and smooths it out at the same time. Of course you can still see the crack, but it's smooth as can be and strong. The crack does NOT show through paint - it blends perfectly.

I think there's a video on Youtube. Google it - it actually works extremely well.

Loctite Super Glue, found in most haedware stores and Stop & Shop. Fill in cracks using a tooth pick dipped in glue, alot doesn't mean stronger.

Salval:
You continue to ask good, thought provoking questions. There are many threads on the ARF about bakelite repair. Whatever "super glue" you use, place scotch brand magic tape along the underside of the crack. It will enable the underside to be "sealed" and is easily removable.
BOB

Once you have used the super glue to stabilize the tight crack, you still need to put a little "backup" on the rear of the crack. Epoxy should give the crack a little extra strength.

I'd use about at least 1/4" on each side of the crack. Roughen the surface where the epoxy goes too. Otherwise epoxy ( or fiberglass resin) could peel off from not getting a good grip on a rough surface.

What about J-B Weld? I've had very good luck with it but never used it on bakelite.

- Geoff

Check out this thread. Like I said, I tried this technique and it works great. You don't need additional "bracing" on the underside.

http://www.antiqueradios.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=168408

Nor does one need a safety rope when mountain climbing.

+1

Baking up as a good thing. You don't need to go to extremes either. Think about the actual surface area that is holding the crack together. The thickness of the bakelite, and the length of the crack. How thick is the 'superglue' on a tight crack? Pretty thin.

Putting at least something on the rear side can help you avoid another hairline crack, when the cabinet heats and flexes.

Sort of like finishing drywall seams without the use of tape. The tape helps hold the two sheets together when the wall flexes. (I say flex, but in very small amounts)

Backing the bakelite up, even 1/4" on each side, can help add additional strength to the crack, making the repair move as one piece.